Climbs 215
Rocktype Diorites
Altitude 311m a.s.l
Faces W

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Ewan on start of P2 of High Level Traverse © Yourlead

Crag features

Roadside crag with a sunny aspect, which can be climbed on for most of the year. Good quality natural trad lines, mostly single pitch, although some two-pitch routes may be found.
A classic of Scotland for good trad cragging. Provides grades from Moderate to E8 in a beautiful setting.
The crag is divided in two main areas: The Dun Mor hill (containing the Upper and Lower Doonie) to the west above the quarry, and the Main Cliffs (containing several buttresses), which sit on top of the scree slope near the road.  

Descent: easy walk-offs are possible on the side of the hills, however there are some convenient ab points on top of Red Wall (E1) on the Upper North-West crag, and another by the trees left of the top of Vindaloo on the Upper Doonie.

Approach notes

Drive on the B955 towards the Glen Clova Hotel. When you reach the hotel, turn left towards the Glen Doll Car Park. After driving 4.10km (2.55miles), you'd have arrived to the base of the slope from where a short, steep hike lands you at the base of Lower North-West crag. Park on the side of the road (56.865432, -3.163804), being considerate of farmers and landowners, and avoiding the obvious laybys used for passing vehicles. Alternatively, continue driving for another 0.5km (2000ft) and you'll find a nice old quarry where parking is much more convenient (56.867293, -3.168910). This second option gives direct access to The Doonie.


Access Advice

Always check possible BIRD NESTING RESTICTIONS that may be active.

Please check Mountaneering Scotland - Bird and Nesting updates before your visit.

** Possible restrictions during Stalking season (Sept - Jan) [disputed] ** 

Does anyone have more information on the bouldering here? I see there are a couple of topos but not much more! I have the guidebook for the area as well as the bouldering book but not much luck in either of those!
Jamila - 20/Aug/23
There is an owl nesting on Monster Crack (Apr 14). Best to leave this route alone for now.
jamie84 - 13/Apr/14
worth noting I ripped off main [rather large flake] in middle of crux section of vanishing Breed 2 seasons ago. Would be considerably harder now.
mgeek - 17/Jun/13
Word on the street is that the good flake on Cinderella that is used to place the vital protection (pre crux) has now fallen off! Care must now be taken when going for this route as it has just got a lot more serious.
Greg Boswell - 17/May/12
Does your comment about 'closet climbing to Dundee' refer to gay Dundonians? IJ
Ian Jones - 06/Jul/09
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Climbs at this crag

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