35m, 2 pitches.
The centre of the crag has a line of roofs. Start at the lowest section at a prominent right slanting ramp.
1. 10m 3b Climb the ramp time a ledge on the right, belays at a wide crack.
2. 25m 5c clime up left if the wide crack to the roof, move left to a cramped alcove and surmount the roof at a sharp keyhole. Move right along a ramp to a rib and climb this to easier ground to tree belays. A further 20m of scrambling right then up leads to more trees and the crest (not included in length).
Well protected by cams but take care with rope drag.
1. 10m 3b Climb the ramp time a ledge on the right, belays at a wide crack.
2. 25m 5c clime up left if the wide crack to the roof, move left to a cramped alcove and surmount the roof at a sharp keyhole. Move right along a ramp to a rib and climb this to easier ground to tree belays. A further 20m of scrambling right then up leads to more trees and the crest (not included in length).
Well protected by cams but take care with rope drag.
John Mackenzie, Ian Douglas, Neil Wilson 18/Jun/2020.
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Guidebooks for Red Rock
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Route of Interest
Maiden of the Cancer Moon
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Maiden's Crag)