35m, 2 pitches.
Start at the lowest point of the crag by a thin crack, below the ramp of Camelot. A strenuous and quite intimidating climb through the exposed roof on the second pitch, good can protection.
1. 10m 4b climb the awkward wall To move right to the ledge and a belay at a wide crack at the far left end of the grass ledge.
2. 25m 5a climb the left edge above the crack, move right past a parallel crack to the roof where a black hold (rattles but sound) leads to the right edge. The overhang can be surmounted via a two-handed jug and a jutting flake. Continue up the right side of the rib to a ledge on the left and finish up shelves to the big grass ledge up right and fixed tree belay, or before the shelves step right to the lower off.
1. 10m 4b climb the awkward wall To move right to the ledge and a belay at a wide crack at the far left end of the grass ledge.
2. 25m 5a climb the left edge above the crack, move right past a parallel crack to the roof where a black hold (rattles but sound) leads to the right edge. The overhang can be surmounted via a two-handed jug and a jutting flake. Continue up the right side of the rib to a ledge on the left and finish up shelves to the big grass ledge up right and fixed tree belay, or before the shelves step right to the lower off.
John Mackenzie and Andrew James 01/Jun/2020.
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Guidebooks for Red Rock
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Route of Interest
Crack of Destiny
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Creag Mhic Ghriogair)