25m.
This fine route takes the steep corner to the right of Guinevere, starting from the left end of the grass ledge which is most easily reached via a mossy scramble above a marked tree. This area is known as the Red Wall.
Either climb a short lower pitch as for Guinevere or start from the belay above.
25m. Climb the left side of the undercut bulge via a slanting crack to a small ledge on the right. Climb the short wall to another ledge with a small tree. Now climb the corner above initially left of the overhang (good cams up left in hidden crack) and continue up the corner to its apex. Climb the wall (2.5 Friend in short crack) up left to either a fixed lower off on a small tree or continue up and left up easier rock to a big ledge and fixed belays on a big tree.
Either climb a short lower pitch as for Guinevere or start from the belay above.
25m. Climb the left side of the undercut bulge via a slanting crack to a small ledge on the right. Climb the short wall to another ledge with a small tree. Now climb the corner above initially left of the overhang (good cams up left in hidden crack) and continue up the corner to its apex. Climb the wall (2.5 Friend in short crack) up left to either a fixed lower off on a small tree or continue up and left up easier rock to a big ledge and fixed belays on a big tree.
John Mackenzie and Ian Douglas 19/May/2025.
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Route of Interest
July Crack
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Buachaille Etive Mor)