A hidden gem which makes a fantastic mountaineering day in this beautiful and remote location.
1) Start just up and right from the base of the rib and climb up and left to gain it.
2) Follow the main rib over a series of steps which are not too exposed. Care is needed with the rock as there are some suspect holds.
3) After a few short steps you reach the larger step which is climbed on its left, via good holds, to a small flattening.
4) More shorter steps lead up the rib to below another buttress. (The buttress can be climbed but a rope is advised). The best option is to the left up a path that leads to the base of a gully.
5) Either finish up this gully or continue to the final buttress. This is another crux and only the most experienced scramblers will feel comfortable without a rope here. It is then a short walk to the summit.
Descent - From the summit, head north along the ridge to a small col. Go over this to a small hillock and then take a path heading northwest, back down towards the forestry plantation where you have parked. After a few hundred metres the path turn left and head down towards Bwlch Drws-Ardudwy, close to the col. Gain the path on the far side of the valley and turn right and reverse your route back to the car. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Scramblers' version of the South Ridge and closer to the original climb that was graded 'Mild Difficult' in 1935. This is Route 78 in the Third Edition of Scrambles in Snowdonia by Steve Ashton.
Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves
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