UKC

Restricted Access

No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag)  have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!

The land above the crag is now designated open access land.

Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid. 

There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully. 

35m, 2 pitches. P1 of Takahe.
20m. From the belay head out left on fragile edges to the obvious flake. Follow this to better holds and a breather. Peg overhead. Traverse right for 3m arrange protection then blast up the thin crack to a wild finale. Phew!

Feedback

User Date Notes
Si Witcher 4 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: aka 'Little Sister' - some name confusion for what seems to be the same line. 2 pegs in-situ: 1 SS hammered peg and then a more recent drilled/glued pegbolt placed adjacent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: aka 'Little Sister' - some name confusion for what seems to be the same line. 2 pegs in-situ: 1 SS hammered peg and then a more recent drilled/glued pegbolt placed adjacent.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Rhoscolyn

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 10
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mammoth

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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