20m.
Climbs the steep crack in the bulging wall left of Cocaine.
Climb the technical wall on positive holds, sniffing out any protection you can find (RPs helpful), as the face steepens the holds improve landing you at the large break with a ledge on the right.
Bouldery moves gain the crack (crux) which then leads steeply and continues to be sustained until a jug is reached (hope it doesn’t break off!), another long move and the sanctuary of a small rest is gained. Continue up the headwall directly, through the fields of ramolina (there are holds, but not so much protection) to the top.
Climb the technical wall on positive holds, sniffing out any protection you can find (RPs helpful), as the face steepens the holds improve landing you at the large break with a ledge on the right.
Bouldery moves gain the crack (crux) which then leads steeply and continues to be sustained until a jug is reached (hope it doesn’t break off!), another long move and the sanctuary of a small rest is gained. Continue up the headwall directly, through the fields of ramolina (there are holds, but not so much protection) to the top.
Pat Littlejohn, Tim Jepson on a cold day in 11/Feb/1989.
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Route of Interest
Mr Softy
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)