UKC

110m, 6 pitches. Traverses Llawder from left to right. Start at the top of the far seaward end of the crag at a shallow, flat alcove. A meaty route, best climbed on a hot, sunny day to achieve the full, roast flavour.
1. 5b 10m. Climb down spikes until a traverse right can be made to an obvious grassy ledge in a groove.
2. 5c 15m. Drop down and make a strenuous hand traverse across Helios to belay on a in the groove of Cocaine/Waxwing.
3. 5a 20m. Move down and follow the horizontal crack to the arete as for Wild Rover. Climb the ramp for a few metres then step across and down to the stance of The Mask of the Red Death.
4. 5b 15m. Down climb Mask until a traverse can be made into the crack of Warpath. Follow this to the overhang then move right to belay on The Sun by a large spike.
5. 6a 25m. Drop down and traverse into the Big Boys groove. Follow this to ledges on the right. Move up to the peg on Bigger Girls. Down climb the flake of Bigger Girls until a traverse can be made into the corner stance of Icarus. (The second can be protected with a back rope on good gear in the flake and a high runner in Icarus).
6. 5b 25m. Climb up Icarus for a few metres, traverse right on good holds dropping down the arete into the groove of Savage Sunbird. Continue rightwards passing through The Cocktail Trip and Adrenaline to a loose finish.

P. Johnson, M. Turner (Varied Leads) Jul/2014.

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Route of Interest
Graduation Ceremony

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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