UKC

Restricted Access

No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag)  have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!

The land above the crag is now designated open access land.

Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid. 

There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully. 

110m, 6 pitches. Traverses Llawder from left to right. Start at the top of the far seaward end of the crag at a shallow, flat alcove. A meaty route, best climbed on a hot, sunny day to achieve the full, roast flavour.
1. 5b 10m. Climb down spikes until a traverse right can be made to an obvious grassy ledge in a groove.
2. 5c 15m. Drop down and make a strenuous hand traverse across Helios to belay on a in the groove of Cocaine/Waxwing.
3. 5a 20m. Move down and follow the horizontal crack to the arete as for Wild Rover. Climb the ramp for a few metres then step across and down to the stance of The Mask of the Red Death.
4. 5b 15m. Down climb Mask until a traverse can be made into the crack of Warpath. Follow this to the overhang then move right to belay on The Sun by a large spike.
5. 6a 25m. Drop down and traverse into the Big Boys groove. Follow this to ledges on the right. Move up to the peg on Bigger Girls. Down climb the flake of Bigger Girls until a traverse can be made into the corner stance of Icarus. (The second can be protected with a back rope on good gear in the flake and a high runner in Icarus).
6. 5b 25m. Climb up Icarus for a few metres, traverse right on good holds dropping down the arete into the groove of Savage Sunbird. Continue rightwards passing through The Cocktail Trip and Adrenaline to a loose finish.

P. Johnson, M. Turner (Varied Leads) Jul/2014.

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Route of Interest
Sex Lobster

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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