Whatta route! The main pitch blasts up the middle of left-hand red wall in magnificent positions. The hors d’oeuvres is no push-over. Start two-thirds of the way down the grassy ramp (40m abseil), an obvious tottering talc and quartz groove marks the line of Left Hand Red Wall. Described via the more commonly climbed Direct variation.
1. 6a. 17m. Up Left Hand Red Wall for 3m then head out rightwards from a rattly flake to reach protection. Make committing moves right, then right and up to a small ledge. With ingenuity, a good belay can be constructed hanging below the ledge.
2. 6a. 40m. Go up to an overlap, good large wire, crimp (technical crux) to a stopping place then sprint directly to a small spike. (Heart of Gold Original traverses right from the stopping place to the base of a left leaning groove and climbs this, good rest, to the small spike. Less logical and no easier). Move left to a larger spike and good rest. Enjoy the view! Gain and follow a crack up and rightwards to a small ledge then move up to a niche where Left Hand Red Wall joins from the left. Up this, trending rightwards, to the top.
p1 Mick Fowler and Stevie Haston 20/8/78. Original: Mick Fowler. P.Thomas Oct 16, 1978. Direct: Paul Pritchard, Trevor Hodgson on-sight Oct 12, 1986.
Speed record on this pitch must be Noel Craine (5 hours). He also took a 40 footer when he pulled a TV sized block off.
1. 6a. 17m. Up Left Hand Red Wall for 3m then head out rightwards from a rattly flake to reach protection. Make committing moves right, then right and up to a small ledge. With ingenuity, a good belay can be constructed hanging below the ledge.
2. 6a. 40m. Go up to an overlap, good large wire, crimp (technical crux) to a stopping place then sprint directly to a small spike. (Heart of Gold Original traverses right from the stopping place to the base of a left leaning groove and climbs this, good rest, to the small spike. Less logical and no easier). Move left to a larger spike and good rest. Enjoy the view! Gain and follow a crack up and rightwards to a small ledge then move up to a niche where Left Hand Red Wall joins from the left. Up this, trending rightwards, to the top.
p1 Mick Fowler and Stevie Haston 20/8/78. Original: Mick Fowler. P.Thomas Oct 16, 1978. Direct: Paul Pritchard, Trevor Hodgson on-sight Oct 12, 1986.
Speed record on this pitch must be Noel Craine (5 hours). He also took a 40 footer when he pulled a TV sized block off.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Steve Long | Aug, 2016 |
Show βeta
βeta: I have climbed the L-hand "direct version" of the crux pitch many times and the other 2 ways once each. The L-hand version is the easiest and best protected way to climb this. Awesome route. The first pitch is getting on for 6a too. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I have climbed the L-hand "direct version" of the crux pitch many times and the other 2 ways once each. The L-hand version is the easiest and best protected way to climb this. Awesome route. The first pitch is getting on for 6a too. |
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Route of Interest
The Super Duper Calebrese
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)