UKC

Restricted Access

No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag)  have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!

The land above the crag is now designated open access land.

Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid. 

There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully. 

Rockfax Description
A fantastic route which is just about worth E3. A low start is possible, giving one long pitch from the boulder beach.
1) 4c, 10m. Start as for Icarus.
2) 5c, 28m. Traverse left along the ledge until it runs out. A committing move left into the base of the hanging corner - usually wet - is followed by more sustained climbing up the corner to a plinth on the right. Easier climbing up the continuation of the groove leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , UK Extreme Corners , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , Extreme 2018 , E3's for 2020 , Jonesy's leg day ticklist , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Preparation for the Resurrection , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Another lifelist?

Feedback

User Date Notes
shaunhumphreys 16 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: After seconding this 05/22 the big loose block seems to have gone. Be interested to know what happed feels about the same level of difficulty.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: After seconding this 05/22 the big loose block seems to have gone. Be interested to know what happed feels about the same level of difficulty.
Keith_Scarlett 1 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Can be done with a direct start from down and left of the huge pillar / flake taken by the original start. I think it makes for a better line and less potential for rope difficulty this way and the belayer can watch their partner.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can be done with a direct start from down and left of the huge pillar / flake taken by the original start. I think it makes for a better line and less potential for rope difficulty this way and the belayer can watch their partner.
pauldrew 19 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Flake in the wide crack at the crux is slightly loose. Not going to come out immediately but does move slightly.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Flake in the wide crack at the crux is slightly loose. Not going to come out immediately but does move slightly.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Rhoscolyn

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 115
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 110
Votes cast 99
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Warpath-Sun Combination

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Rhoscolyn)

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