UKC

Rockfax Description
A fantastic route which is just about worth E3.
1) 4c, 10m. Start as for Icarus.
2) 5c, 28m. Traverse left along the ledge until it runs out. A committing move left into the base of the hanging corner - usually wet - is followed by more sustained climbing up the corner (the crux is passing the overlap) until you eventually reach a plinth on the right. Easier climbing up the continuation of the groove leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK, Extreme 2018, E3's for 2020, Jonesy's leg day ticklist, Hard Rock & Other Classics, Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Keith_Scarlett 1 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Can be done with a direct start from down and left of the huge pillar / flake taken by the original start. I think it makes for a better line and less potential for rope difficulty this way and the belayer can watch their partner.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can be done with a direct start from down and left of the huge pillar / flake taken by the original start. I think it makes for a better line and less potential for rope difficulty this way and the belayer can watch their partner.
pauldrew 19 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Flake in the wide crack at the crux is slightly loose. Not going to come out immediately but does move slightly.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Flake in the wide crack at the crux is slightly loose. Not going to come out immediately but does move slightly.

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 102
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 99
Votes cast 88
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Centrefold

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Rhoscolyn)
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