UKC

Restricted Access

No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag)  have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!

The land above the crag is now designated open access land.

Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid. 

There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully. 

Rockfax Description
S0, 7b+. A spectacular journey inside the cave. Traverse left into the cave inside a hanging curtain of rock. Gain the front of the curtain and undercut rightwards then jam into the closed chimney above. Swing wildly on jugs through the gap between two big hanging fins to a good rest. Continue right on big holds before a hard move up to undercuts leading out to the lip and easier terrain up to the top. © Rockfax

Dan McManus 14/Jun/2011.

Ticklists

North Wales DWS

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Guidebooks for Rhoscolyn

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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Route of Interest
Alien/Positron

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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