UKC

Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

10m.

Rockfax Description
Rivelin's second classic E4 arete - technically harder than The Brush Off but with much better gear. Climb the short crack to the break, arrange a few wires and cams whilst getting ever more pumped, then sprint for the top via some tough laybacking. © Rockfax

FA. Andy Parkin 1976.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Ultimate E4 ticklist , James' Winter Grit ticklist , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Memorable Climbs , Peaks hard stuff , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Sheff , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Winter 23/24 , Best Before 2025 , Will's Whippers

Feedback

User Date Notes
ste 7 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: thought that was what you were supposed to do. its not 6b
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: thought that was what you were supposed to do. its not 6b
john nightingale 22 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: felt easy for E4 good gear , however continuing on the front face all the way to the top is desperate hard 6b. has anyone else done this,
βeta?
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βeta: felt easy for E4 good gear , however continuing on the front face all the way to the top is desperate hard 6b. has anyone else done this,
ste 21 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: didnt feel like much of a rest below the crux, especially when the best bit of gear fills the best handhold. usually i hope to feel less pumped after the rest not more pumped!
βeta?
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βeta: didnt feel like much of a rest below the crux, especially when the best bit of gear fills the best handhold. usually i hope to feel less pumped after the rest not more pumped!
north country boy 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route with very different climbing in lower half! Don't get too pumped with the arete still to go!! ;)
βeta?
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βeta: Brilliant route with very different climbing in lower half! Don't get too pumped with the arete still to go!! ;)
UKB Shark 23 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: agree with above but still definitely E4
βeta?
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βeta: agree with above but still definitely E4
Tyler 4 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Must be easy for E4, possibly E3? Well protected and you can get your breath back beneath the crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Must be easy for E4, possibly E3? Well protected and you can get your breath back beneath the crux.

Logged Ascents

324 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Rivelin Edge

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 55
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Goliath

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Burbage South Edge)

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