UKC

Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

11m.

Rockfax Description
The slab direct on friction. It is delicate and protection is limited. © Rockfax

FA. Phil Baker 1982.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Eastern Grit E1s

Feedback

User Date Notes
GeorgiePorgie1 27 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: If you would want to claim E1 you defo need to stay right in the middle of the wall which makes this a bit of a eliminate (hence 1 star?). Pinching off a few holds off Left Edge is all too tempting. :)
βeta?
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βeta: If you would want to claim E1 you defo need to stay right in the middle of the wall which makes this a bit of a eliminate (hence 1 star?). Pinching off a few holds off Left Edge is all too tempting. :)
P.Tully 3 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: softest route on gritstone
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: softest route on gritstone
Iain Thow 21 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Originally led this by accident thinking it was Left Edge, thanks to a missed line (printing error) in the 1983 guide. A small cam in the top break would stop you. I did think the top move was 5a & worth E1
Show beta
βeta: Originally led this by accident thinking it was Left Edge, thanks to a missed line (printing error) in the 1983 guide. A small cam in the top break would stop you. I did think the top move was 5a & worth E1
Dale Berry 2 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Just about E1 for the runout. The moves aren't to tricky for 5a, but it'd be a long slide down if you came off them. A worthwhile no star route.
βeta?
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βeta: Just about E1 for the runout. The moves aren't to tricky for 5a, but it'd be a long slide down if you came off them. A worthwhile no star route.
Si dH 6 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: If you can reach gear without climbing off the line, which you can, then its not off-route.
βeta?
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βeta: If you can reach gear without climbing off the line, which you can, then its not off-route.
Mutl3y 4 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I thought that it shared gear with the VS next door (which I thought had harder moves than this). Saying that it's off route makes everything a bit contrived. Put some pro in and don't hurt yourself on it.
βeta?
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βeta: I thought that it shared gear with the VS next door (which I thought had harder moves than this). Saying that it's off route makes everything a bit contrived. Put some pro in and don't hurt yourself on it.
Andrew Barker 23 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great fun, did it twice in a row! Really pleasant slab, I'd say a soft touch for the grade but I'm a slab climber!
βeta?
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βeta: Great fun, did it twice in a row! Really pleasant slab, I'd say a soft touch for the grade but I'm a slab climber!
Si dH 26 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: HVS 4c if youre short too, it wasn't reach dependent. Easy-angled smearing and no 5a in sight. Still, a nice route and worth a star or two I reckon.
βeta?
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βeta: HVS 4c if youre short too, it wasn't reach dependent. Easy-angled smearing and no 5a in sight. Still, a nice route and worth a star or two I reckon.
Matt_b 5 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Soft E1. HVS 5a.
βeta?
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βeta: Soft E1. HVS 5a.
MeMeMe 1 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Bit of an eliminate but quite nice. One delicate move that is easier if you are taller. Has gear - got small cams in towards the left of the two breaks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bit of an eliminate but quite nice. One delicate move that is easier if you are taller. Has gear - got small cams in towards the left of the two breaks.

Logged Ascents

782 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Rivelin Edge

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 111
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 104
Votes cast 95
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Millwheel Wall

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Burbage South Quarries)

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