The landowner (a tree surgeon with a vision of how this woodland should be managed), protested strongly to the BMC about damage to trees and erosion to footpaths around the crag. Climbers should avoid the area to the right of Altar Crack and respect its integrity as a conservation area. Any further damage to trees will result in the loss of all access for climbing.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Update June 2022 - both pairs of Kestrels have now fledged young so the restrictions have been removed - thank you!
Kestrels are currently (April 2022) nesting in Rhododendron Crack / Entrapment (Rivelin Quarries) and also in Roof Route/Groove Route (Rivelin Edge). Please avoid these routes until further notice.
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
The juggy lower wall leads leftwards via a flake to a ledge and the fine upper arete, which is superb and photogenic. This is initially bold putting the route at the upper end of the grade. © Rockfax
FA. Allan Austin 1958. Direct start Peter Stone 1998..
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone
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