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14m.

Rockfax Description
The juggy lower wall leads left to the fine bold upper arete, which is both superb and photogenic. The central section is bold putting the route at the upper end of the grade. It can also be started direct (strenuous) up the lower arete for a full E1 5b tick. © Rockfax

FA. Allan Austin 1958. Direct start Peter Stone 1998..

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, World Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Rivilin, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, So you think you’re a VS climber?

Feedback

User Date Notes
TimTett 28 Sep Show βeta
βeta: the gardener had been out and removed the gorse thus revealing the hidden holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the gardener had been out and removed the gorse thus revealing the hidden holds.
joelairig4164 26 Sep Show βeta
βeta: If the stranger that lent me an alien cam half way up the route is out there, thank you so so much
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If the stranger that lent me an alien cam half way up the route is out there, thank you so so much
ClimbingNut 8 Jul Show βeta
βeta: red offset nut useful at crux
 
Show beta
βeta: red offset nut useful at crux
andyman666999 24 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: It really isn’t bold - found the flared crack takes a bomber offset nut and there’s lots of small to 0.5/purple cam placements. In addition there are some small constrictions that you can fiddle nuts into, when it gets “thin”
 
Show beta
βeta: It really isn’t bold - found the flared crack takes a bomber offset nut and there’s lots of small to 0.5/purple cam placements. In addition there are some small constrictions that you can fiddle nuts into, when it gets “thin”
Duz Walker 10 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Warning!! Unsolicuted gear beta follows.... I had backed off this one before above a skinny nut as it felt too bold. Today it felt safe as houses with an en-face rock 7 further out from its predecessor but in the same well used small blind flake at half height. Allowed me to enjoy the beautiful moves and my first ever kneebar showboat. Up there with the best of them.
 
Show beta
βeta: Warning!! Unsolicuted gear beta follows.... I had backed off this one before above a skinny nut as it felt too bold. Today it felt safe as houses with an en-face rock 7 further out from its predecessor but in the same well used small blind flake at half height. Allowed me to enjoy the beautiful moves and my first ever kneebar showboat. Up there with the best of them.
Si dH 26 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Pleasantly surprised by the gear, I thought it was going to be bold but it wasn't. 5a coming out of the middle bit where you go round the arete I thought, but as mentioned interestign the whole way. Definitely 3* and definitely only HVS.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pleasantly surprised by the gear, I thought it was going to be bold but it wasn't. 5a coming out of the middle bit where you go round the arete I thought, but as mentioned interestign the whole way. Definitely 3* and definitely only HVS.
leon 30 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i found this sustained technical climbing most of the way. excellent route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i found this sustained technical climbing most of the way. excellent route
wilkie14c 8 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: def top of the grade for HVS, Poss E1 as suggested in other guides. solid 5a though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: def top of the grade for HVS, Poss E1 as suggested in other guides. solid 5a though.
slacky 14 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Took advantage of the weather the other day and led this in the snow :D. Excellent fun, good climbing all the way with spaced gear. Moved round to right of arete soon after getting above the ledge at mid-height, makes for some nice friction climbing, although you can probably stay on the left of the arete for longer.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Took advantage of the weather the other day and led this in the snow :D. Excellent fun, good climbing all the way with spaced gear. Moved round to right of arete soon after getting above the ledge at mid-height, makes for some nice friction climbing, although you can probably stay on the left of the arete for longer.
Iggy_B 22 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One of my favourite routes! Don't know if it has a "crux" it felt consitently at the same level and never felt too hard!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of my favourite routes! Don't know if it has a "crux" it felt consitently at the same level and never felt too hard!
MNA123 30 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: tried this route the other day and after enjoying the great climbing on the lower section,got totally stuck on the middle bit (crux?) up the arete both myself and my mate tried and failed on it,looked a lot harder then HVS 5a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: tried this route the other day and after enjoying the great climbing on the lower section,got totally stuck on the middle bit (crux?) up the arete both myself and my mate tried and failed on it,looked a lot harder then HVS 5a.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 246
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 238
Votes cast 228
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Lyons Corner House

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Millstone Edge)