Rockfax Description
The juggy lower wall leads leftwards via a flake to a ledge and the fine upper arete, which is superb and photogenic. This is initially bold putting the route at the upper end of the grade. © Rockfax
FA. Allan Austin 1958. Direct start Peter Stone 1998..
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone , The Eal List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| TimTett | 28 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: the gardener had been out and removed the gorse thus revealing the hidden holds. | βeta? | |
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βeta: the gardener had been out and removed the gorse thus revealing the hidden holds. |
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| joelairig4164 | 26 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: If the stranger that lent me an alien cam half way up the route is out there, thank you so so much | βeta? | |
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βeta: If the stranger that lent me an alien cam half way up the route is out there, thank you so so much |
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| ClimbingNut | 8 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: red offset nut useful at crux | ||
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βeta: red offset nut useful at crux |
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| andyman666999 | 24 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: It really isn’t bold - found the flared crack takes a bomber offset nut and there’s lots of small to 0.5/purple cam placements. In addition there are some small constrictions that you can fiddle nuts into, when it gets “thin” | ||
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Show beta
βeta: It really isn’t bold - found the flared crack takes a bomber offset nut and there’s lots of small to 0.5/purple cam placements. In addition there are some small constrictions that you can fiddle nuts into, when it gets “thin” |
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| Duz Walker | 10 May, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Warning!! Unsolicuted gear beta follows.... I had backed off this one before above a skinny nut as it felt too bold. Today it felt safe as houses with an en-face rock 7 further out from its predecessor but in the same well used small blind flake at half height. Allowed me to enjoy the beautiful moves and my first ever kneebar showboat. Up there with the best of them. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Warning!! Unsolicuted gear beta follows.... I had backed off this one before above a skinny nut as it felt too bold. Today it felt safe as houses with an en-face rock 7 further out from its predecessor but in the same well used small blind flake at half height. Allowed me to enjoy the beautiful moves and my first ever kneebar showboat. Up there with the best of them. |
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| Si dH | 26 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Pleasantly surprised by the gear, I thought it was going to be bold but it wasn't. 5a coming out of the middle bit where you go round the arete I thought, but as mentioned interestign the whole way. Definitely 3* and definitely only HVS. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pleasantly surprised by the gear, I thought it was going to be bold but it wasn't. 5a coming out of the middle bit where you go round the arete I thought, but as mentioned interestign the whole way. Definitely 3* and definitely only HVS. |
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| leon | 30 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: i found this sustained technical climbing most of the way. excellent route | βeta? | |
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βeta: i found this sustained technical climbing most of the way. excellent route |
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| wilkie14c | 8 May, 2005 |
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βeta: def top of the grade for HVS, Poss E1 as suggested in other guides. solid 5a though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: def top of the grade for HVS, Poss E1 as suggested in other guides. solid 5a though. |
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| slacky | 14 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Took advantage of the weather the other day and led this in the snow :D. Excellent fun, good climbing all the way with spaced gear. Moved round to right of arete soon after getting above the ledge at mid-height, makes for some nice friction climbing, although you can probably stay on the left of the arete for longer. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Took advantage of the weather the other day and led this in the snow :D. Excellent fun, good climbing all the way with spaced gear. Moved round to right of arete soon after getting above the ledge at mid-height, makes for some nice friction climbing, although you can probably stay on the left of the arete for longer. |
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| MNA123 | 30 Dec, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: tried this route the other day and after enjoying the great climbing on the lower section,got totally stuck on the middle bit (crux?) up the arete both myself and my mate tried and failed on it,looked a lot harder then HVS 5a. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: tried this route the other day and after enjoying the great climbing on the lower section,got totally stuck on the middle bit (crux?) up the arete both myself and my mate tried and failed on it,looked a lot harder then HVS 5a. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Rivelin Edge
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David
Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Burbage South Edge)