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At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving, but we feel this is no longer socially acceptable. You can read our statement here.

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UKClimbing Team

14m.

Rockfax Description
The left-hand crack is approached up a straightforward clean-cut groove to reach a recess. Steep and insecure moves gain the upper cave then good jamming leads to an awkward exit. © Rockfax

FA. Rupert Brooks 1934

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Burbage South Edge

Feedback

UserDateNotes
jim jones 5 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Great route!!! should be on everyones grit agenda.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route!!! should be on everyones grit agenda.
Nick Smith - Climbers 23 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Enjoy the pleasant climbing up the initial corner and the final jamming crack, because the middle section is hideous! Hard work with nothing much for the feet...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Enjoy the pleasant climbing up the initial corner and the final jamming crack, because the middle section is hideous! Hard work with nothing much for the feet...
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Deema Mozayen 8 Sep, 2019 Lead O/S Ace route - all the more so with a hands-off kneebar mid-crux!
Ace route - all the more so with a hands-off kneebar mid-crux!
Sid Sherborne 8 Sep, 2019 2nd O/S
Gambit 5 Sep, 2019 Lead O/S
josefft 5 Sep, 2019 2nd O/S
with Gambit
with Gambit
Laudi 24 Aug, 2019 Lead dog
DBeesley 24 Jul, 2019 2nd dnf Struggled to jam way out of cave at top. DNF
Struggled to jam way out of cave at top. DNF
MiraVezir 21 Jul, 2019 2nd
keitht 22 Jun, 2019 2nd
tmawer 2 Jun, 2019 2nd O/S Climbed in heavy rain, unable to look up as the water running from the crack dripping in my face and on my glasses made this tricky. Held a wire while I extracted another but claiming the onsight anyway! Stirling effort by Bram leading this in the conditions.... I wasn't sure whether to laugh or cry!
Climbed in heavy rain, unable to look up as the water running from the crack dripping in my face and on my glasses made this tricky. Held a wire while I extracted another but claiming the onsight anyway! Stirling effort by Bram leading this in the conditions.... I wasn't sure whether to laugh or cry!
Rob Laird 20 Apr, 2019 Lead O/S Some hard moves, considering I'm not the best at jamming
Some hard moves, considering I'm not the best at jamming
George Frisby 14 Apr, 2019 2nd β Backed off the mid bulge and then seconded after Luke finished it off. Will need to lead to the end next time.
Backed off the mid bulge and then seconded after Luke finished it off. Will need to lead to the end next time.
luke_blazejewski 14 Apr, 2019 Lead O/S Gave this a go after George backed off the crux. Managed to somehow pull through the crux into the final cave, only to realise the real crux is at the end. Very committing final moves!
Gave this a go after George backed off the crux. Managed to somehow pull through the crux into the final cave, only to realise the real crux is at the end. Very committing final moves!
Hidden 11 Apr, 2019 2nd O/S
Duncan Bell 1 Jan, 2019 -
WillRhodes 5 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Enjoyed, although the upper crack was a bit of a fight. A weird kneebar helped, I suppose. Not wearing a helmet reduces the grade, the cheats...
Enjoyed, although the upper crack was a bit of a fight. A weird kneebar helped, I suppose. Not wearing a helmet reduces the grade, the cheats...
rtdennison 30 Aug, 2018 2nd Bit of a beast once you start gettting close to the top!
Bit of a beast once you start gettting close to the top!
CRead 30 Aug, 2018 Lead
JoeLongbottom 30 Aug, 2018 Lead
Hidden 30 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
kitbehard 30 Aug, 2018 2nd β
Hidden 11 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Aug, 2018 2nd
Hidden 1 Aug, 2018 Lead
Jim Walton 1 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Chris M
with Chris M
Ilia Nadyrbayev 15 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
with Kirill
with Kirill
Kirill 15 Jul, 2018 Lead
rockafunked 15 Jul, 2018 2nd
J.E.Spencer 2 Jun, 2018 2nd
w-watson 2 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 May, 2018 Lead
Hidden 22 May, 2018 Lead O/S
kermit_uk 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Michelle_250 19 May, 2018 2nd
Ratfeeder 7 May, 2018 2nd O/S
with Phil
with Phil
phardy 20 Apr, 2018 2nd
with Droyd
with Droyd
Droyd 20 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
with Pete
with Pete
Tom Woolgar ??, 2018 Lead O/S
with Graham Cooper
with Graham Cooper
CharlieMack 20 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
with Jeff, John allen
with Jeff, John allen
Brannock 8 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt First ascent of this route this year? Good old fashioned fun
First ascent of this route this year? Good old fashioned fun
dr_botnik 8 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
Mr Wild 17 Jul, 2016 2nd Failed to lead, spent a lot of time in the cave, even removing my helmet and leaving it in the crack. Fell off exiting the cave. Adam lead on gear.
with MNA123
Failed to lead, spent a lot of time in the cave, even removing my helmet and leaving it in the crack. Fell off exiting the cave. Adam lead on gear.
with MNA123
poeter210 15 May, 2016 2nd O/S
druss 15 May, 2016 Lead O/S Good route with awkward move out of the cave.
Good route with awkward move out of the cave.
bryce.dorin 8 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Mark, Gareth Uglow, dunnyg
with Mark, Gareth Uglow, dunnyg
Hidden 8 May, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 8 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Antonio Ferra ?May, 2016 2nd O/S
James Oswald ?Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Hard
with Ryn
Hard
with Ryn
Hidden ??, 2016 -
rajeshwarbisht 26 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 26 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
libby.southgate 20 Sep, 2015 2nd
with MarcusP
with MarcusP
mishabruml 20 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S absolutely class. committing moves and perfect jamming. loved it
with Henry O'Brien
absolutely class. committing moves and perfect jamming. loved it
with Henry O'Brien
Louishmouis 6 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with finn
with finn
ashtond6 5 Sep, 2015 Lead dnf Fell off this then led E6 in same day. Welcome back to grit
Fell off this then led E6 in same day. Welcome back to grit
Budge 4 Sep, 2015 2nd rpt
with James from the Club, Ade
with James from the Club, Ade
Neil 25 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Carl Watkins 25 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
with Neil
with Neil
TobyA 23 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Broke a rib for a second time this summer doing this. Ow.
with SimonW
Broke a rib for a second time this summer doing this. Ow.
with SimonW
harry_lewis 15 Apr, 2015 Lead β on Tom's gear
with Dan, Tom Bennell
on Tom's gear
with Dan, Tom Bennell
Hidden ??, 2015 Solo O/S
si_pro_83 26 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Spent a bit of time in the cave… great fun though!
with Tubs
Spent a bit of time in the cave… great fun though!
with Tubs
Tubs 26 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
with Simon P
with Simon P
Chriswallis2 21 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Ally Robertson
with Ally Robertson
Hidden 18 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
morganator 17 Jul, 2014 Solo O/S
with soph
with soph
soph 17 Jul, 2014 Solo rpt
MrBIond 7 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 6 Jul, 2014 Lead
the power 6 Jul, 2014 2nd rpt
Hidden 19 Jun, 2014 Lead
disturbed_one51 12 Jun, 2014 Lead
with Peachy
with Peachy
funsized 18 May, 2014 Lead O/S
with floris, dannyboy83
with floris, dannyboy83
sopaz 5 Oct, 2013 Lead dog Pulled on a cam at the top. Grit HVS still eludes me...
Pulled on a cam at the top. Grit HVS still eludes me...
deacondeacon 5 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
the power 5 Oct, 2013 2nd O/S well hard
well hard
will_benfold 5 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Sep, 2013 2nd
Hidden 29 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
climb the peak 27 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S great route, might have gone a bit of route at the top
great route, might have gone a bit of route at the top
Tradical 26 Sep, 2013 2nd O/S With some support from above.
With some support from above.
Hannes B 31 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
marcduhig 31 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
althesin 20 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
Reds 20 Jul, 2013 Lead dog
schristophersmith 20 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 14 Jul, 2013 2nd
Brannock 14 Jul, 2013 Lead rpt Dosent get any easier.
Dosent get any easier.
Steph Ward 13 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Jules Lane 9 Jul, 2013 2nd dog Middle section a very awkward grovel (so took a little rest on the rope) top and bottom much better, but not 3 stars.
with Mynydd Dave K
Middle section a very awkward grovel (so took a little rest on the rope) top and bottom much better, but not 3 stars.
with Mynydd Dave K
David Kay 9 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Mynydd C.C.
with Mynydd C.C.
Paul ablitt 8 Jun, 2013 Lead rpt
with Rachel
with Rachel
Hidden 4 Jun, 2013 2nd
Climbster 3 Jun, 2013 2nd β
Bloke on a Rope 3 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S You get lulled into a false sense of security with the steady start then before you know your wedged into the niche and jamming like a maniac, awesome!
You get lulled into a false sense of security with the steady start then before you know your wedged into the niche and jamming like a maniac, awesome!
Goose4 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with Sophie Heron
with Sophie Heron
Cake 4 May, 2013 - Got as much of a buzz climbing this as I did snowballing The Archangel. Best route I've done in the whole valley
Got as much of a buzz climbing this as I did snowballing The Archangel. Best route I've done in the whole valley
Hidden 9 Oct, 2012 Lead
Milnes 9 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S
mjeffery 26 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Brannock 27 May, 2012 Lead O/S Having just crawled into the first cave, I hear from my belayer "dont want to worry you brannock but I think your harness is undone" "no problem, Im very securly wedged in this cave with my face so ill just rethread the leg loop" Very Stoopid Good value for money at HVS.
Having just crawled into the first cave, I hear from my belayer "dont want to worry you brannock but I think your harness is undone" "no problem, Im very securly wedged in this cave with my face so ill just rethread the leg loop" Very Stoopid Good value for money at HVS.
GermanAlex 27 May, 2012 2nd dnf did my duty as a 2nd and removed all gear up to the last piece 1.5m from the top, then had enough of it and was lowered down (after an unsuccessful attempt to exit via a caving expedition). a very easy start builds false confidence, getting out of the 1st cave with a helmet on prooved difficult at best.
did my duty as a 2nd and removed all gear up to the last piece 1.5m from the top, then had enough of it and was lowered down (after an unsuccessful attempt to exit via a caving expedition). a very easy start builds false confidence, getting out of the 1st cave with a helmet on prooved difficult at best.
R0bbie 15 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with Taba
with Taba
Hidden 29 Mar, 2012 2nd O/S
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
Hidden 27 Sep, 2011 Lead
AlexxelA 9 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Wow. Such a lovely start but getting in and out of the various caves is a nightmare. Plus the lower cave had some sort of nest full of dead things in it.
with Cari
Wow. Such a lovely start but getting in and out of the various caves is a nightmare. Plus the lower cave had some sort of nest full of dead things in it.
with Cari
tomjagger 5 Aug, 2011 2nd β
with Matt Cooke
with Matt Cooke
stephenhartley 13 Jul, 2011 2nd
Hidden 10 May, 2011 Lead O/S
highclimber 17 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S awkward exit from the cave at 3/4 height. Leave the helmet behind for that bit!
awkward exit from the cave at 3/4 height. Leave the helmet behind for that bit!
cem 17 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Apr, 2011 2nd dog
Hidden ??, 2011 -
keith leonard ??, 2011 -
keith leonard ??, 2011 -
DavidR 7 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
andrew300169 10 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Really good much better than I expected
with nai
Really good much better than I expected
with nai
nai 10 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
victim of mathematics 5 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Not nearly as sustained as the guide would have you believe. The first half is a delightful romp, then things get tricky. The gear is unilaterally brilliant.
with Jim
Not nearly as sustained as the guide would have you believe. The first half is a delightful romp, then things get tricky. The gear is unilaterally brilliant.
with Jim
Hidden 30 Jun, 2010 Lead rpt
Hidden 19 Jun, 2010 2nd
Tony Holdsworth 5 Jun, 2010 Lead rpt
with Martin Haworth
with Martin Haworth
Hidden 4 Jun, 2010 2nd rpt
Hidden 4 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 31 May, 2010 Lead
with RM199
with RM199
Rob Davies 23 May, 2010 2nd Not as bad as I remember, though Phil didn't make it look easy
with Phil A
Not as bad as I remember, though Phil didn't make it look easy
with Phil A
sam corbett 23 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Alistair Corbett 23 May, 2010 2nd
AndyFrank 22 May, 2010 Lead O/S Felt high in the grade for HVS
with Mike Burton
Felt high in the grade for HVS
with Mike Burton
Fred Mainwaring ?Apr, 2010 Lead
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead O/S
MikeDowsett ??, 2010 2nd
with TonyF
with TonyF
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
Ken Taylor ??, 2010 -
RM199 ??, 2010 2nd
jkarran 2 Aug, 2009 2nd Awkward, tough and thought provoking. Nice!
with Aly
Awkward, tough and thought provoking. Nice!
with Aly
Hidden 25 Jul, 2009 Lead rpt
Ketu 23 Jul, 2009 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 23 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with Ketu
with Ketu
alexyoung 5 Jul, 2009 2nd O/S
Dave Foster 5 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S Good.
with Alex
Good.
with Alex
Hidden 24 Jun, 2009 Lead
Jim Slater 18 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Si dH 31 May, 2009 2nd O/S
with Marco
with Marco
Pilch 18 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S not as tough as i was expecting
with Graham
not as tough as i was expecting
with Graham
al99 1 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with James Whitlock
with James Whitlock
jw231 1 Aug, 2008 2nd O/S
with Al Benson
with Al Benson
alaan 20 Jul, 2008 Solo
KristianBirchall 4 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
with Claire Chadderton
with Claire Chadderton
gibbo38 18 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with Phil
with Phil
TomHaigh 31 Mar, 2008 2nd O/S
with Aiden Jones
with Aiden Jones
Hidden 14 Mar, 2008 2nd
Hidden ??, 2008 -
tom.e 14 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S
Mark Riley 20 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 7 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
with Dad
with Dad
victim of mathematics 3 Jun, 2007 2nd O/S
with soph
with soph
Jim Vach 2 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
with Jurek
with Jurek
sparkass ?Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
with Jen Randall
with Jen Randall
Hidden 23 May, 2007 Lead rpt
Rjukan 1 Nov, 2006 Lead O/S
OffshoreAndy 21 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S Battle
with NCC Nic
Battle
with NCC Nic
Jack Symmons ?Jul, 2006 Lead Hot ans sweaty
with Chris T
Hot ans sweaty
with Chris T
Budge 29 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
dangerousoldfool ?Jun, 2006 2nd dog Failed my jam-exams on this one ! Being tall did not help in the slightest.
with Budge
Failed my jam-exams on this one ! Being tall did not help in the slightest.
with Budge
dan gibson ??, 2006 -
joe c ook ?Oct, 2005 Lead O/S
with R.Bates
with R.Bates
Reds 17 Jul, 2005 Lead dnf
with Henry
with Henry
reg_measures 21 May, 2005 2nd O/S
with timmy elson
with timmy elson
UKB Shark ??, 2005 Solo O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2003 2nd
Hidden ?Jul, 2003 Lead
Hidden 27 Mar, 2003 2nd
Hidden 17 Aug, 2002 Lead
Hidden 1 Jun, 2002 Lead O/S
morganator ?Feb, 2002 Solo O/S
Chris Ellis 29 Jul, 2001 2nd
with Martin Veale
with Martin Veale
Hidden 2 Jul, 2001 Lead
Alastair Hudson 10 Sep, 2000 Lead
FrankW 22 Jul, 2000 2nd O/S
with Andy R
with Andy R
Seb Grieve ??, 2000 -
marcoleptic ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Oct, 1999 Lead O/S
John Marsland 26 Jun, 1999 2nd
with Allen Newby
with Allen Newby
Hidden 29 May, 1999 2nd O/S
Mark Stevenson 7 Nov, 1998 Lead O/S
ajc 7 Nov, 1998 2nd O/S
clive-greenwood 17 Sep, 1998 Lead
uphillnow 27 Aug, 1998 Lead
stokienomad 8 Aug, 1998 Lead
Neil McA 24 Jan, 1998 Lead rpt Great day running the edges from Moscar lodge to the Robin Hood doing 10 routes. 1-3C and icy with a bitter wind!
with Nick Lewis
Great day running the edges from Moscar lodge to the Robin Hood doing 10 routes. 1-3C and icy with a bitter wind!
with Nick Lewis
Roget 10 Aug, 1997 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Martin Bennett 13 Jul, 1997 -
with Cec
with Cec
kato'sdad 2 Jun, 1996 Lead
RobSimmo 2 Jun, 1996 2nd
Laramadness 25 May, 1996 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Jul, 1995 Lead O/S
Chris Reid 26 Jun, 1995 Lead O/S
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ??, 1995 Lead
roncaves 26 Jul, 1993 Lead
with Gavin Williams
with Gavin Williams
IanD353 ?Apr, 1992 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1992 Lead
crossleysm ??, 1991 Lead O/S
Alan Scowcroft 7 Aug, 1990 2nd
Hidden ??, 1990 -
beaumap ?Oct, 1989 Lead
with Tim Waddington
with Tim Waddington
babymoac 9 Jul, 1988 Lead
with kevin B
with kevin B
steveb2006 10 Aug, 1986 Lead Instructing
Instructing
Mark Kemball 14 May, 1983 Solo
DonnyDave 20 Apr, 1983 2nd
with Richard Tuting
with Richard Tuting
Rick51 31 Aug, 1981 Lead
Rob Davies 26 Apr, 1980 Lead Much needed practice on a steep crack. Hated the wide finish (no big gear), but did it eventually.
with Martin Moran
Much needed practice on a steep crack. Hated the wide finish (no big gear), but did it eventually.
with Martin Moran
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Hidden 24 Sep, 1978 2nd
MikeDowsett ??, 1978 Lead
Nigel Bond 11 May, 1977 Lead
with Tony Cuddy
with Tony Cuddy
Dave Musgrove 28 Jul, 1974 -
clanger ??, 1972 -
mikej 27 Aug, 1967 Lead A bit tough for a VS
with Dave Williams, Nigel Sumner
A bit tough for a VS
with Dave Williams, Nigel Sumner
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 46
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 42
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set