Rockfax Description
The left-hand crack is approached up a straightforward clean-cut groove to reach a recess. Steep and insecure moves gain the upper cave then good jamming leads to an awkward exit. © Rockfax

FA. Rupert Brooks 1934

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Eastern Grit Jamming, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS).

CharlieMack 20/Apr 2nd O/S
with Jeff, John allen
Brannock 08/Apr Lead rpt

First ascent of this route this year? Good old fashioned fun

dr_botnik 08/Apr 2nd O/S
with Toby, John
Mr Wild 17/Jul/16 2nd

Failed to lead, spent a lot of time in the cave, even removing my helmet and leaving it in the crack. Fell off exiting the cave. Adam lead on gear.

poeter210 15/May/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/May/16 Lead O/S
bryce.dorin 08/May/16 Lead O/S
with Mark, Gareth Uglow, dunnyg
Hidden 08/May/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/May/16 Lead O/S
Antonio Ferra ?/May/16 2nd O/S
James Oswald ?/Apr/16 Lead O/S


with Ryn
Hidden ??/2016 -
rajeshwarbisht 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Flavio
FlavioL1989 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
libby.southgate 20/Sep/15 2nd
mishabruml 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S

absolutely class. committing moves and perfect jamming. loved it

with Henry O'Brien
Louishmouis 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with finn
ashtond6 05/Sep/15 Lead dnf

Fell off this then led E6 in same day. Welcome back to grit

Budge 04/Sep/15 2nd rpt
with James from the Club, Ade
Neil 25/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Carl Watkins 25/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Neil
TobyA 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Broke a rib for a second time this summer doing this. Ow.

with SimonW
harry_lewis 15/Apr/15 Lead β

on Tom's gear

with Dan, Tom Bennell
Hidden ??/2015 Solo O/S
si_pro_83 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Spent a bit of time in the cave… great fun though!

with Tubs
Tubs 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Simon P
Chriswallis2 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Ally Robertson
Hidden 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S
morganator 17/Jul/14 Solo O/S
soph 17/Jul/14 Solo rpt
MrBIond 07/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 06/Jul/14 Lead
the power 06/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Andy
Hidden 19/Jun/14 Lead
disturbed_one51 12/Jun/14 Lead
with Peachy
funsized 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with floris, Danny Boy
sopaz 05/Oct/13 Lead dog

Pulled on a cam at the top. Grit HVS still eludes me...

with Mackie
deacondeacon 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
the power 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S

well hard

with deacon
will_benfold 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
climb the peak 27/Sep/13 Lead O/S

great route, might have gone a bit of route at the top

Hidden 26/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hannes B 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sara, Charlie, Rik
marcduhig 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
rikbattye ?/Aug/13 2nd
althesin 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Reds 20/Jul/13 Lead dog
schristophersmith 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
MPSBunny 14/Jul/13 2nd

Had a tight rope whilst a tried to winkle out two of John's cams which walked in a wee bit. First time I've removed a cam with a nut key - that's what the hooked ends are for.

Brannock 14/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Dosent get any easier.

Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Jules Lane 09/Jul/13 2nd dog

Middle section a very awkward grovel (so took a little rest on the rope) top and bottom much better, but not 3 stars.

with Mynydd Dave K
David Kay 09/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Mynydd C.C.
greenclimb 08/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Rachel
Hidden 04/Jun/13 2nd
Climbster 03/Jun/13 2nd β
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 03/Jun/13 Lead O/S

You get lulled into a false sense of security with the steady start then before you know your wedged into the niche and jamming like a maniac, awesome!

with Matt
Goose4 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Cake 04/May/13 -

Got as much of a buzz climbing this as I did snowballing The Archangel. Best route I've done in the whole valley

Hidden 09/Oct/12 Lead
Milnes 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with pep
mjeffery 26/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Brannock 27/May/12 Lead O/S

Having just crawled into the first cave, I hear from my belayer "dont want to worry you brannock but I think your harness is undone" "no problem, Im very securly wedged in this cave with my face so ill just rethread the leg loop" Very Stoopid Good value for money at HVS.

GermanAlex 27/May/12 2nd dnf

did my duty as a 2nd and removed all gear up to the last piece 1.5m from the top, then had enough of it and was lowered down (after an unsuccessful attempt to exit via a caving expedition). a very easy start builds false confidence, getting out of the 1st cave with a helmet on prooved difficult at best.

R0bbie 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Taba
Hidden 29/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden 27/Sep/11 Lead
AlexxelA 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Wow. Such a lovely start but getting in and out of the various caves is a nightmare. Plus the lower cave had some sort of nest full of dead things in it.

with Cari
tomjagger 05/Aug/11 2nd β
with Matt Cooke
stephenhartley 13/Jul/11 2nd
with Burns
Hidden 10/May/11 Lead O/S
highclimber 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S

awkward exit from the cave at 3/4 height. Leave the helmet behind for that bit!

cem 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/11 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2011 -
keith leonard ??/2011 -
keith leonard ??/2011 -
DavidR 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
andrew300169 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Really good much better than I expected

with Pom
nai 10/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Cal
victim of mathematics 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Not nearly as sustained as the guide would have you believe. The first half is a delightful romp, then things get tricky. The gear is unilaterally brilliant.

with Jim
Hidden 30/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd
Tony Holdsworth 05/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Martin Haworth
Hidden 04/Jun/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 31/May/10 Lead
Rob Davies 23/May/10 2nd

Not as bad as I remember, though Phil didn't make it look easy

with Phil Ashton
sam corbett 23/May/10 Lead O/S
Alistair Corbett 23/May/10 2nd
AndyFrank 22/May/10 Lead O/S

Felt high in the grade for HVS

with Mike Burton
Fred Mainwaring ?/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
MikeDowsett ??/2010 2nd
TonyF ??/2010 Lead
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
RM199 ??/2010 2nd
jkarran 02/Aug/09 2nd

Awkward, tough and thought provoking. Nice!

with Aly
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead rpt
Ketu 23/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 23/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Rob
alexyoung 05/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Dave Foster 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S


with Alex
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Lead
Jim Slater 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Si dH 31/May/09 2nd O/S
with Marco
Pilch 18/Sep/08 Lead O/S

not as tough as i was expecting

with Graham
al99 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with James Whitlock
jw231 01/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Al Benson
alaan 20/Jul/08 Solo
gibbo38 18/May/08 2nd O/S
with Phil
TomHaigh 31/Mar/08 2nd O/S
with Aiden Jones
Hidden 14/Mar/08 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 -
tom.e 14/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Mark Riley 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Dad
victim of mathematics 03/Jun/07 2nd O/S
Jim Vach 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Jurek
sparkass ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Jen Randall
Hidden 23/May/07 Lead rpt
Rjukan 01/Nov/06 Lead O/S
OffshoreAndy 21/Jul/06 Lead O/S


with NCC Nic
Jack Symmons ?/Jul/06 Lead

Hot ans sweaty

with Chris T
Budge 29/Jun/06 Lead O/S
dangerousoldfool ?/Jun/06 2nd dog

Failed my jam-exams on this one ! Being tall did not help in the slightest.

with Budge
dan gibson ??/2006 -
joe c ook ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with R.Bates
Reds 17/Jul/05 Lead dnf
with Henry
reg_measures 21/May/05 2nd O/S
with timmy elson
Nicos 12/Feb/05 Lead O/S
with mark richardson
ukb & bmc shark ??/2005 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/03 2nd
Hidden ??/2003 2nd
Hidden 17/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 29/Jul/01 2nd
with Martin Veale
Hidden 02/Jul/01 Lead
Alastair Hudson 10/Sep/00 Lead
FrankW 22/Jul/00 2nd O/S
with Andy R
Seb Grieve ??/2000 -
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/99 Lead O/S
John Marsland 26/Jun/99 2nd
with Allen Newby
Hidden 29/May/99 2nd O/S
Mark Stevenson 07/Nov/98 Lead O/S
ajc 07/Nov/98 2nd O/S
clive-greenwood 17/Sep/98 Lead
uphillnow 27/Aug/98 Lead
stokienomad 08/Aug/98 Lead
Roget 10/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with jon
Martin Bennett 13/Jul/97 -
with Cec
kato'sdad 02/Jun/96 Lead
RobSimmo 02/Jun/96 2nd
Laramadness 25/May/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jul/95 Lead O/S
Chris Reid 26/Jun/95 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
roncaves 26/Jul/93 Lead
with Gavin Williams
IanD353 ?/Apr/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
crossleysm ??/1991 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 -
beaumap ?/Oct/89 Lead
with Tim Waddington
babymoac 09/Jul/88 Lead
with kevin B
Hidden 10/Aug/86 Lead
Mark Kemball 14/May/83 Solo
Rob Davies 26/Apr/80 Lead

Much needed practice on a steep crack. Hated the wide finish (no big gear), but did it eventually.

with Martin Moran
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Hidden 24/Sep/78 2nd
MikeDowsett ??/1978 Lead
Nigel Bond 11/May/77 Lead
with Tony Cuddy
Dave Musgrove 28/Jul/74 -
clanger ??/1972 -
mikej 27/Aug/67 Lead

A bit tough for a VS.

with Dave Williams, Nigel Sumner
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 38
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set