UKC

9m.

Rockfax Description
The thin crack splitting the wall has a desperate start and even more desperate moves to reach the wider upper section. The start is a good f6B. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Bancroft 1976.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, James' Winter Grit ticklist, Peak District Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 21 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty tricky I thought for an E2. Quite pumpy to place gear and certainly harder than most other E2 cracks to onsight. Worth E3 for the onsight in my eyes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pretty tricky I thought for an E2. Quite pumpy to place gear and certainly harder than most other E2 cracks to onsight. Worth E3 for the onsight in my eyes.
Jus 18 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Wish I had thought of that. I cruised the boulder problem & got completely boxed placing wires & then fell off.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wish I had thought of that. I cruised the boulder problem & got completely boxed placing wires & then fell off.
Fiend 15 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Classy little number, hard to resist. The boulder problem can be done in many ways, with starting on the right obviously being easier. A cunning plan of placing lots of wires, jumping off (without mat or weighting rope, of course), de-pumping then blasting up it, helps - not totally pure but fits the style of climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Classy little number, hard to resist. The boulder problem can be done in many ways, with starting on the right obviously being easier. A cunning plan of placing lots of wires, jumping off (without mat or weighting rope, of course), de-pumping then blasting up it, helps - not totally pure but fits the style of climb.
Ram MkiV 23 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: E3 6b to onsight. Totally safe but an E2 leader will fail. Started from the ground, reaching the horizontal flake is a hard boulder problem and definitely worth 6b. The moves up from the good flake are slightly easier, but tricky to onsight.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: E3 6b to onsight. Totally safe but an E2 leader will fail. Started from the ground, reaching the horizontal flake is a hard boulder problem and definitely worth 6b. The moves up from the good flake are slightly easier, but tricky to onsight.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 40
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Zeus

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Burbage South Quarries)
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