UKC

Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

10m.

Rockfax Description
The centre of the slab has boldish moves to the midway break (small cams) and then turns technical and reachy above. A bit escapable but the climbing is good enough to ignore that fact. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1985.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Before I die , John Allen (gritstone) megamix

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fiend 15 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The BMC (and now Rockfax) grade of E3 5c is correct. Easy moves in reasonable conditions, the crux perhaps being stretching over to place the bomber cams! Slightly eliminate but good and continually nice climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The BMC (and now Rockfax) grade of E3 5c is correct. Easy moves in reasonable conditions, the crux perhaps being stretching over to place the bomber cams! Slightly eliminate but good and continually nice climbing.
john nightingale 27 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: E3 in the new guidebook, spot on. friend half, half way up and a surprisingly good friend 00 above, would hold a fall i think.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: E3 in the new guidebook, spot on. friend half, half way up and a surprisingly good friend 00 above, would hold a fall i think.
Robo 24 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Seems very bold for E2 5c...bottled it and ended up on Fringe...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Seems very bold for E2 5c...bottled it and ended up on Fringe...
UKB Shark 23 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: followed it yesterday - we thought E2 fair though looking at comments soft touch E3 would also be ok
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: followed it yesterday - we thought E2 fair though looking at comments soft touch E3 would also be ok
Ropeboy 21 Feb, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Have read the comments with interest so far; it's bold but not as bold as Brush Off so may be bottom end E3? A bold start lead to a much better protected upper half and I did it on a red hot day having vowed never to go on that slab again.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Have read the comments with interest so far; it's bold but not as bold as Brush Off so may be bottom end E3? A bold start lead to a much better protected upper half and I did it on a red hot day having vowed never to go on that slab again.
Nick Smith - Climbers 15 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Mildly bold?? There isn't any gear at all until the midway break, and perhaps one piece higher, near the top. Very scary indeed!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Mildly bold?? There isn't any gear at all until the midway break, and perhaps one piece higher, near the top. Very scary indeed!

Logged Ascents

219 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Rivelin Edge

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 26 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 27
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 50
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dirty Harry

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Millstone Edge)

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