Rockfax Description
Low in the grade but a bit bold. Follow the crack to a poor rest below the blank upper section. Build a safety net then balance left, high or low, to better holds. Either finish straight up or continue traversing to finish close to Embankment 3 - both options are about the same grade and equally scary. © Rockfax

FA. Ed Drummond 1975

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Tick List for 2015/2016, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Memorable Climbs, One Day Challenges: HVS-E4, Extreme 2018.

Jwatson 13/Nov/17 Lead O/S
with Jan
FelixJT 01/Nov/17 2nd
with willr
markvaughan 01/Nov/17 Lead dog

Great route, although I cocked up and fell near the top of the crack. The upper section requires a trusting approach and some easy climbing

mattlyons 01/Nov/17 Lead G/U

Tried this summer in 20+ degree heat and couldnt use the crimps. Felt steady today.

with Josh Willson
WilliamRupp 01/Nov/17 2nd
with mark, felix
simibrown 17/Oct/17 TR O/S


with Rich, Duncan
Hidden 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 15/Oct/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Oct/17 2nd
benkelsey 09/Oct/17 2nd rpt

Uber classic

with mrteale
mrteale 09/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Been on the list for ages. Spooky fun.

eb202 24/Sep/17 2nd dog

Fell off somewhere on the crack. Jams are never great and it was quite greasy at the time. Found the E3 section easier than the E1 crack, which was harder than Embankment 3. A little tricky for the short of arm (but not impossible) - had to use a tiny edge rather than the big obvious edges to reach the top out.

with Michael
Mike505 24/Sep/17 Lead dog

Was going for Tea for Two but it was feeling far too greasy, slipped whilst making my way onto Time for Tea to escape onto.

milena 24/Sep/17 Lead O/S

First E3. Great climbing!

with Dave
MNC 24/Sep/17 Lead dnf

disappointed not to get up this, but psyched to have got on it, first attempt at E3, took the fall reaching for the good hold after the traverse many times

with Sarah
Sophie Nunn 24/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Ian L
Barrie Schofield II 18/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Stickle Tarn 29/Aug/17 Lead G/U

First on TR, then lead. Gear isn't excellent in the crack and several good pieces can be placed before departing left onto the face.

Alice Thompson 26/Aug/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/17 Lead rpt
Alex Riley 20/Aug/17 Lead RP

Slipped off the crack the first time.

scarmichael 20/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Steve Wooton
Stanners 10/Aug/17 Lead O/S

psyched to of got up it! A bit brown trousery near the top!

with James Rich
Hidden 10/Aug/17 Lead β
Lukem6 10/Aug/17 2nd rpt
with group day
JamesRich 10/Aug/17 2nd dog
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 31/Jul/17 Lead rpt
teamvix 27/Jul/17 2nd dog

So gutted to fall off. Midway up crack, foot slipped. Got sequence wrong moving onto traverse. When I did the sequence, it all felt great. Beautiful, beautiful route!

with Peak Climbers
marcduhig 24/Jul/17 Lead dnf
with Alan
WilliamRupp 20/Jul/17 Lead
F.Wish 13/Jul/17 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Jul/17 2nd
Stopsy 01/Jul/17 2nd dog

one fall, one rest.

with Bede
oliver.ghill91 01/Jul/17 2nd O/S
with Juliette, Patrick Hill
Patrick Hill 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S
bede.west 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Great fun. All you want in a route well protected hard move with a run out with moves enough to concentrate the mind! Definitely one of the best e3s ive done.

with Stopsy
harry.morrish 25/Jun/17 Lead dnf

took a lot of whips trying the move to gain the big ledge - didn't push myself 100% but its pretty bold! (pretty fun moves though) will be back

mattlyons 14/Jun/17 Lead dnf
tyho 28/May/17 Lead O/S
Shea 22/May/17 Lead O/S

Pulled the rope after doing the E4 version and used the same gear. Really cool moves on the face!

with Reece
Dom Taylor 08/May/17 2nd
masa-alpin 07/May/17 Lead O/S

Took the "middle"-line for the traverse and I felt it pretty hard (unsurprisingly). The very final move, which is pointlessly easy for the tall like Rob, was the crux for (very) shorties and 6a, a way above the last gear. Solid E4 6a for shorties.

with Charline H, Rob G
robgixer 07/May/17 2nd rpt
Carl 07/May/17 Lead dog

Definitely coming back for this one! The initial crack felt much harder than Embankment 2 & 4, but I might just have been tired. Top section felt fine, the gear nest is solid.

with Luke vF
irish paul 06/May/17 Lead G/U
Hidden 04/May/17 TR dog
markvaughan 01/May/17 2nd O/S
FelixJT 01/May/17 2nd dog
WilliamRupp 01/May/17 Lead G/U
with mark, felix
Brannock 23/Apr/17 Lead rpt

Crux done with footholds wall/playback cheating method

Adam Long 23/Apr/17 2nd

Reckon crux easier as foot traverse

with Ben Bransby
GeorgeHH 23/Apr/17 2nd
tunnah 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Tom.Priestley 23/Apr/17 2nd RP

In gloves as my hands were shot. Took 3 attempts as i was being silly in the crack.

with CMoore, Hinkley Honkley, tunnah
Mr Wild 23/Apr/17 2nd rpt
CMoore 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with George Hayton
Andrew Sloan 23/Apr/17 2nd rpt
with John Brannock
Sam O'Rourke 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Tom Barr
Tommy Westside 08/Apr/17 2nd O/S
George Killaspy 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
shaunhumphreys 02/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Been meaning to do this for a while! Amazing, scary but fairly steady! Took a looooong time to commit tho! Banging psytrance from a rave down the hill helped with psyche so probably only E2..

morganator 12/Mar/17 Lead rpt
with Stan Halstead
Andy Moles 09/Mar/17 Lead rpt
with Georgia
mshorter 20/Jan/17 Lead O/S
with tom
Frank the Husky ??/2017 -
Mike W 27/Dec/16 Lead O/S
with chris
Toby 18/Dec/16 2nd
with JR, Bruce
Hidden 18/Dec/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Oct/16 Lead
scottcoates 22/Oct/16 Lead β
pingora 08/Oct/16 2nd

Crack was the hardest bit by miles!

with Rory
Rory_Cummings_NI 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Ian
Jack93 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Mike505 01/Oct/16 Lead O/S

I've been wanting to get on this for ages, pretty chuffed to get up it clean! Hardest part was the crack for me, the space walk was just great fun on small edges and good holds.

Brannock 29/Sep/16 2nd rpt
Doug Sharpe 29/Sep/16 2nd β
with Gabe Oliver
Gabe Oliver 29/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Pretty cruisey. Initial crack easier than it looks from the ground (there's actually lots of foot holds either side of the crack). Decent rest with a veritable bomb shelter of gear then a fun, thought provoking runout. Top stuff!

with Doug Sharpe
Wil Treasure 17/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S
td72 12/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Brannock 02/Sep/16 Lead rpt
Mark Stevenson 02/Sep/16 2nd rpt
Ellis Bird ?/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 06/Aug/16 2nd rpt
Dale Comley 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Jacob Bloodworth 03/Aug/16 Lead O/S
efrance24234 03/Aug/16 2nd O/S
MichaelGallimore 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 30/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Mike
AJM 23/Jul/16 Lead dog

Skittered off the traverse first go. Started from the rest rather than the ground second time round.

Neal Jobling 17/Jul/16 2nd dog
with Gavin Singleton
sev 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
EmilyN 30/Jun/16 2nd dog
with Toph
Dr Toph 30/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Good route of two halves, bomber gear made the crux seem fine, just puzzling enough. Quite reach-dependant going for the big rail, so those of shorter stature should continue further left.

with Emily
eel 07/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Al
Hidden 30/May/16 Lead RP
David Kay 15/May/16 Lead rpt
Moritz L 15/May/16 2nd O/S
Paul ablitt 14/May/16 Lead rpt
Brannock 14/May/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/May/16 2nd dnf
Hidden 08/May/16 Lead β
GwilymR 08/May/16 Lead O/S

OMG First E3! :D

with Jammy
Hidden 08/May/16 2nd dog
Adam24B 05/May/16 Lead

Woops, went too high and took my biggest wipper yet! Shouldn't have committed to a move that blatantly wasn't 5c

Kris2fa 05/May/16 2nd dog
with Adam24B
islandlynx 01/May/16 Lead O/S

My favorite route to date. A route of two halves including my favorite aspects of climbing: cracks, slabs and great gear. Finished up to the tree.

TomRiddelsdell 01/May/16 2nd β
with AmyDeath, Shane Williams
GPN 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Trad Exchange
harry_lewis 21/Apr/16 Lead RP

toproped in the past

with Connor Read
Hidden 21/Apr/16 Lead O/S
CRead 20/Apr/16 2nd β

Nice introduction to crack climbing!

Lukem6 11/Apr/16 2nd rpt
Andy Moles 11/Apr/16 2nd
with Ben Silvestre, Ferdia
ferdia 11/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Ben Silvestre, Andy Moles
phil64 01/Apr/16 TR

quick rope after Embankment

with Andy Bowman
TomYates 25/Mar/16 TR dog

2 rests

D.Russell 23/Mar/16 Lead O/S
tom russell 23/Mar/16 Lead β

on Dougies gear

CharlieMack 17/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Luke Weaver
Sam McCarthy 16/Mar/16 Lead rpt

on toms gear

Tom Bennell 16/Mar/16 Lead
codenamel 16/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Charlie
Flavio 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
phil64 14/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with matt dean
Lukem6 11/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with Derrick
daviesxxx 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Been 35 years since I last did this, so am claiming an Alzheimer's onsight. Especially after going way y&y too high on the traverse and having to reverse.

steveleahy 04/Oct/15 2nd O/S
bencole 03/Oct/15 Lead
climberchristy 03/Oct/15 Lead

Can't call this an onsight as done the original before and have abbed down the line as a way of getting off other routes. However, crux moves never done before. Crux went no problem. Scary but great route which I've wanted to do for a while! Ben led it too. He did the 'straight up' finish to the tree but I opted for the left hand finish being shorter. Left hand way involves easy foot traversing but you get a long way from the gear!!

with bencole
lloydrees91 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with mark
robgixer 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
JamesMarsh 13/Sep/15 TR dnf

so many tries, so many falls.... one day maybe

soph 05/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with Laura Evans
Hamish2322 ?/Sep/15 -
IggyGoesPop 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S
pearson9596 15/Aug/15 2nd rpt
quiffhanger 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd dog
Bernie L 08/Aug/15 Lead G/U

Fell on the rest doing something stupid with my feet!! Pulled the rope and did it from the ground so pretty much all the gear was already in. Top section is great though!

Hidden 05/Aug/15 2nd O/S
sparkass 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Rob Lovatt
adam 24 11/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Done cleanly his time, my crack skills have improved a bit.

with Caroline
Hidden 11/Jul/15 2nd dog
Lukem6 03/Jul/15 Lead dnf
stevorobs3 ?/Jul/15 2nd dog
stevorobs3 28/Jun/15 2nd O/S
ian d f 28/Jun/15 2nd O/S
pearson9596 28/Jun/15 Lead O/S
bigdrew 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

'Bout time

with Eve
eel 27/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Andy J
annep11 21/Jun/15 Lead dnf

Found a decent rest, mind wandered, foot popped! Frustrating.

Senna 10/Jun/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/Jun/15 Lead dog
Sam McCarthy 08/Jun/15 TR β
nicola parkin 04/Jun/15 2nd
with jon
morganator 04/Jun/15 Lead rpt
rurp 26/May/15 Lead O/S

Previously bailed right at top of crack on lead. Ha ha great to grab that tree at the top, fantastic

Brannock 21/May/15 Lead rpt
Dominic Green 17/May/15 2nd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 17/May/15 Lead
WB 04/May/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Rewards the committed

NDD ?/May/15 Lead O/S
with Michaela
MSchobitz 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Seconded this ages ago and remember nothing, so counting this as an onsight. Thought the crack was the crux... took a while to stop my vigorous discolegging at the top of the crack before I could commit to the traverse. The holds are luckily all just there when you need them!

with USMC
Hidden 21/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 22/Mar/15 Lead rpt
Felix la shat ??/2015 TR dog
with Louis
Louishmouis ??/2015 -
Hidden 29/Oct/14 2nd rpt
Ewan Russell 29/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 29/Oct/14 2nd
Hidden 26/Oct/14 Lead
Hidden 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
alice_loudon 05/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Niels
Hidden 04/Oct/14 2nd dog
poeter210 04/Oct/14 TR dog
Nick Wallis 02/Oct/14 2nd dog

Last move is v long reach, escaped left to Embankment 3 finish.

with Rich Cross, Jon
morganator 02/Oct/14 Lead β
with Nick Wallis, Rich Cross
DavidPC 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Johnny D
eel 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Al
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd
Stuart Johnston 27/Sep/14 Lead dog

Annoyingly fell on the crack before the "bomb shelter". Lowered to the ledge and climber clean. Went high on the traverse and had to make some tricky moves.

adam 24 27/Sep/14 2nd β
adam 24 27/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Fell from below the bomb shelter and ripped some gear. The crack felt hard.

Oddjob 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Rosie, Adam B
Matthew Ferrier 23/Sep/14 2nd rpt
dom94 23/Sep/14 Lead β

Not really sure how to class the ascent as have already done time for tea original, but was doing to crux for the first time.

with Matt F
Matt Groom 14/Sep/14 Lead
Matt Groom 14/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 07/Sep/14 TR
Hidden 31/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 18/Aug/14 Lead β
ashtond6 18/Aug/14 2nd
Robb Bert 13/Jul/14 -
ashtond6 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Really fun move, crux is way closer to the gear than I thought

Hannes B 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with John Br
Brannock 30/Jun/14 2nd
robertmichaellovell 29/Jun/14 Lead
with Chris Down
Hidden 15/Jun/14 TR
Leo Woodhead 14/Jun/14 Lead β

Climbed on Mischa's gear. Great route, the crack is far harder than the moves out left at the top. As long as you keep your head on the move left, they're actually quite easy, whereas I found the crack climbing hard.

with Mischa
The Grist 01/Jun/14 Lead dog

One fall starting the traverse. Tried to traverse too low. When I tried from higher I did it.

PaulTanton 01/Jun/14 2nd rpt

Done this before. I traversed high with my foot on the jug. Got the gear out of the LH crack then went back and did the finish from the jug. Don't think it makes that much difference what level you traverse at.

Stefan_Morris 17/May/14 Lead O/S
benkelsey 14/May/14 Lead O/S

cruised in the evening light. easier than expected but with some long reaches. not sure how people can traverse too high?

with James Oswald
James Oswald 14/May/14 2nd O/S

Ben cruised it. Lovely route, not too tricky but scary when leading.

Ed Booth 06/May/14 Lead O/S
with Anna Pugh
Dan Mckinlay ?/May/14 Lead β
dan gibson 21/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Chriswallis2 14/Apr/14 Lead β
with Andy UKC
j.buckley87 11/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Fragmod 10/Apr/14 Lead

Massive whipper (rock definitely greasy!!). Got it 2nd time. Went too high, traversed on hand holds I think?

JakeWShaw 09/Apr/14 2nd dog

Came off at the top off the crack due to there being 5 pieces of gear in the good hold and not having enough energy to hold onto the crimp instead! Good lead by Ben.

with Ben Ochner
MicheleC 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
M_Robinson 15/Mar/14 2nd dog
DanielGyi 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Fantastically bold but pretty steady moves.

WillDoyle 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S
James Oswald 05/Mar/14 2nd dog

Fell on the crack with freezing hands. Cold

with Alex Mccan
amccann 05/Mar/14 Lead β

Everything felt a lot easier than last time I tried this. Not quite sure how I messed up the mantelshelf last time, as I hardly noticed any effort on it this time.

uphillnow ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
funsized 17/Nov/13 Lead O/S
amccann 15/Nov/13 Lead dnf

Took the fall off the mantelshelf, couldn't feel my fingers enough to realise the small crimp I had was too small to take any weight. Will be back soon.

Matthew Ferrier 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Pretty straightforward, crack, leave gear, crimp, stretch, crimp. . . Oh wait, I need another half an inch to reach the top comfortably. Pretty pleasant moves away from the crack which required a bit more jiggery pokery for me to reach through.

with Micki
MSchobitz 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S
Albachoss ?/Nov/13 2nd

1 fall caught with one hand and I've been told no rope assistance. The difficulties are with the crack.

Hidden 28/Sep/13 Lead rpt
James Oswald 26/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Good route. The bottom crack section to get to the ledge is easier than I expected, the middle section felt hard. The moves probably aren't very tough for 5c but they're scary! Ace

Andy Peak 1 21/Sep/13 Lead

Fellt just as good second time round:-)

with Dan bates
tebs 31/Aug/13 Lead β

Belayed Tom first so not onsight but fairly easy to read. Quite thin traverse left and precarious mantle. Lower crack fine. Good route overall!

with Tom
Hidden 23/Aug/13 Lead dnf
Tom Livingstone 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Mark1800 19/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 19/Aug/13 2nd O/S
deacondeacon 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Didnt find the crack too bad, stood at the top for ages before growing some balls and getting on with the rest of it. Nice finish to a good day.

Wayne S 18/Aug/13 2nd
with Deacon
Tangerine_Kingdom 17/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Too short for the top move, had to dyno and almost helicoptered off!

with Harry Stuart-Smith
Hidden 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Michael Allday 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Si dH 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Neil Furniss
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 16/Jun/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Jun/13 2nd
David Kay 02/Jun/13 Lead RP

Fell on the initial crack then pulled the ropes through for another go. Gutted not to get the onsight but still a great end to an amazing day.

spragglerocks 02/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Pippa 25/May/13 Lead O/S
mountain_jay 25/May/13 2nd
Hidden 05/May/13 2nd
Pete Rigby 05/May/13 Lead dnf
with Kelli Roberts
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 05/May/13 Lead rpt
DaveMo 04/May/13 2nd
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead RP
Hidden 03/May/13 -
alice fuller ?/May/13 2nd O/S
with woj
nimajneb ?/May/13 Lead
Hidden 31/Mar/13 2nd
jacobjacob 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Nick Sillem ??/2013 -
ejected ??/2013 -
Anna duckett ??/2013 2nd
with Nick Preistly
Hidden 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
BRoe 03/Nov/12 Lead β
Hidden 14/Oct/12 Lead
Nick1812P 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
roberto18 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S

a bit greasy after rain, found the bottom crack harder than the top moves, great and exciting climbing above your gear.

with Dad (Mike Bridges)
mike bridges 13/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Found the lower crack tough,annoyingly my foot slipped near the top of the crack and I was "off" . The top moves were great,hard step across but easier to the top.

barni 08/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Bob
Keendan 07/Sep/12 Lead RP

Fell off this ages ago as well

with Coel
mattnuttall 02/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Pat Rainbird
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Calder 01/Sep/12 2nd
with Mark
Diggler 01/Sep/12 Lead rpt

Foot slipped of and blew the onsight. :-( Relead and got it clean. Exiting

with Johnny, andyob, Calder
andyob 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Really happy with the second top rope styley thing, not very good at crack climbing, loved the top moves,well done me ...

with Diggler
Lunar25 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Beautiful moves...

with Dave LE
Cake 18/Aug/12 Lead dnf

Not the best route to try fro my second E3 when it had become roasting. Went too high, fell off, then my heart wasn't in it. Bomber

with Matt
stingray_tara 18/Aug/12 2nd dnf

Only last move not completed - reachy and bold

with Mike Reed
Paul Eckton 12/Aug/12 2nd β
Kevster 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Dean177 30/Jul/12 Lead dog

Fell off while still climbing the crack, missed an obvious foothold which would have given a good rest. Got back on and climbed the rest clean though.

Dibdawg 30/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/12 2nd O/S
disturbed_one51 25/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Far too tired and it was far too hot to try today. I think i went too high and slimed off the rock over. Good fall though! There is also a hand sized bit of rock missing from the edge of the crack as it ripped off in my hand. I think that was the way the route told me, not today!

with Wee man
Haydn Jones 20/Jun/12 2nd O/S

just jumped with both hands to the ledge...probably wouldn't of done it that way if i was on lead

Ed morris 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Ditched my rack at the last gear. A great route

with Andy
Andy Peak 1 20/Jun/12 Lead

The reason why I climb!

Hidden 14/Jun/12 2nd β
mwatson 14/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 20/May/12 Lead O/S
with Rosh
maddy.c 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Harry Holmes 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Joanna
pie_eater_pete 21/Mar/12 2nd rpt
john lynch 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with adam harrison
bwestwood 20/Mar/12 Lead
with pete sargeant
pmurdy 20/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Ollie B 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Good quality

with P.Murdy
markolst 17/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/12 Lead O/S
mark20 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
kiks 10/Mar/12 Lead β
david morse 10/Mar/12 Lead β
w.pettet-smith ?/Mar/12 -

wanted to do this one for yonks. after rain so chalk free, exciting lead

with ben
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Harry Chaplin ??/2012 Lead β
Adam Coles ??/2012 Lead O/S
with hilty
hilty ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
elCapitano 20/Nov/11 Lead dnf

Courty's gear. Took a big whipper. Looking at phots I was too high and doing the Adrian Berry ninja move;

with Kenny, Courty, Clare
Martin Haworth 06/Nov/11 Lead dnf

Fell off before I even got to the scary bit! Felt very greasy today.

with Andy
s.c.white 23/Oct/11 2nd dog
with mike thomas
Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Compo 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Kev Faux
Dirk Uhlig 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Sep/11 Lead dog
GraMc 17/Sep/11 Lead β

amazing route!!, lead with folk shouting advice and some cheeky gear info, got pumped just before the traverse and slumped onto gear ahhh!!!, got it second time

with pete abernethy, dave brigham, emily roo
henry peter jenkins 16/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with paul jones
tom.ireson 05/Sep/11 Lead dnf

Windy day, took the big fall from the techy moves at the top! Started raining shortly after so no repeat attempt yet. Crack up to the crux is trickier than it looks too, rather flared and polished...

masonwoods101 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S

easy for e3 5c. thought traverse wasnt hard but a bit spicy looking down when stood on the rail

Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Speeddemonsi 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
richardr 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/11 2nd
belay bunny turned bad 27/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/11 2nd dog
Hidden 14/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Chris Wright 05/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 31/May/11 Lead O/S
Dougie Harvey 22/May/11 2nd O/S
Lawrie Brand 22/May/11 Lead O/S
TomPR 21/May/11 Lead
Hidden 19/May/11 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 19/May/11 Lead O/S

At some point in your climbing career I suppose you have to sketch from the top of that crack, across to that ledge. And my time was today! VERY scary, but strangely 'nice'... certainly satisfying and an ever so slight relief to complete :)

Hidden 18/May/11 Lead O/S
stephenhartley 17/May/11 2nd
with Burns
barrowclough 01/May/11 2nd RP
with Spod
pie_eater_pete 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
davewsargent 25/Apr/11 2nd
willoates 21/Apr/11 Lead RP

Finally!! :) felt much easier this time. Got to the ledge by foot traverse. next time its the hand traverse... then an all out jump

Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
tatz45 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Pretty steady, pretty soft, very good.

lrandall 11/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Utterly brilliant from start to finish. A *** E1 crack leading to a *** V3 problem you really don't want to fluff!

Chris J Houston 09/Apr/11 Lead β
with The Dumby Team
Somerset swede basher 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with George Taylor
Keendan 07/Apr/11 Lead dnf

No chalk! took a decent fall and ended up upside down. Might have gone a bit too high before going left.

spidey 03/Apr/11 Lead

repeat ascent! 8 years ago almost to the day!!

with Jimmy
steve_yo 28/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with smacks
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 26/Mar/11 2nd
with loundsy
C coldwell-storry 08/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Phil Vickers
pabbage 07/Mar/11 2nd
Ahab ??/2011 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
cymjt ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
highfivekrissy ?/Nov/10 2nd
with Mike Thomas
J.Wells 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Ben1983 18/Sep/10 Lead dnf

fell off the crux (?) moves in the crack, then scooted up the E1 to finish.

Hidden 27/Aug/10 2nd
FlorianCastagne 19/Aug/10 Lead β
with Nathan Rosenfeld
richiebongo 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Gwen Thomson
nadeem 01/Aug/10 Lead RP

First e3. Had done the crack before on the e1 and fallen off. Onsighted the e3 bit at the top. Good laugh

Stephen Horne - Rockfax 27/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/10 Lead dog
Chris_barr 04/Jul/10 Lead β
with Oli
willoates 28/Jun/10 Lead dnf

fell from the E3 bit this time, (missed a hold), next time its going down!!!.

gordonday 24/Jun/10 TR β
with clive
willoates 03/Jun/10 Lead dog

fell on the lower crack just above the first ledge. this was really annoying seeing as i climbed the orriginal route clean onsight last year! E3 bit was fine though.

sgl0jd 03/Jun/10 Lead
liamoloughlin 29/May/10 Lead
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 28/May/10 2nd rpt
Mr Sparkle 28/May/10 Lead O/S
Mr Sparkle 28/May/10 Lead O/S
highrepute 25/May/10 Lead β
natalietanzer 21/May/10 2nd
with nacnud
nacnud 21/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/10 Lead O/S
hamish2016 16/May/10 Lead O/S
with Saf
Hidden 13/May/10 Lead O/S
Rob Grant 09/May/10 Lead
with sam ring
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead O/S
tom.e 06/May/10 Lead β
with Malcolm
pete87abs 02/May/10 Lead dnf

Took a big fall from the big foot ledge dont know how i managed it, dont no how i didnt finish it!

billb ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/10 2nd dog
markalmack 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
DavidR 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Shauna 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Jules
Andrew Barker 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Low in the grade but still a great route.

catblack 08/Apr/10 2nd β
Fred Mainwaring ?/Apr/10 2nd
Rowansb 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S

the finger crack felt more difficult than the run out

Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/10 Lead
Hidden 10/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Daniel Wicks 07/Mar/10 Lead β
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
RossG ??/2010 Lead
TonyF ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 07/Oct/09 Lead dog
PeteH 05/Oct/09 Lead O/S

First E3 onsight. Ridiculously, found the initial crack pretty hard (especially on feet!) but managed to get myself sorted before launching leftwards.

with Brad Cain
Matt Bennett 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
metal arms 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/09 2nd
smallerrich 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S


with Ollie Wragg
Hidden 03/Sep/09 Lead
JPGR ?/Sep/09 2nd
with Frank
Ed Babs 27/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
Ben Harper 23/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Ian
Hidden 22/Aug/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/09 Lead
barni 17/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Ewan
colkurtz 17/Aug/09 2nd
with Robb
benchwarmer 17/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/09 -
Mr Wild 15/Aug/09 Lead
Dave Warburton 12/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Cool. Easier than expected even though i got cackhanded on the mantleshelf

Joe Costello 11/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with James
highrepute 11/Aug/09 Lead dog
Madblock 16/Jul/09 Lead β

Preplaced Gear

with Charles
Jim Slater 11/Jul/09 2nd O/S
miastacey 09/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Heather Clarke
BrettB ?/Jul/09 2nd
Misha 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Excellent route, great variety of climbing styles and protectability. Foot traversed the good holds - delicate but only one hard move. Looks like there's an alternative hand traverse line which is a bit better protected as you stay lower, but the mantle onto the good hold looks pretty precarious.

Hidden 20/Jun/09 2nd
thomasadixon 18/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Tough crack and scary traverse, awesome! Looking at pics on here seems I did it the hard way...

with Graeme
Graeme Hammond 18/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 13/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with michael porter
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead rpt
drcorbasisgod 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 31/May/09 TR dog

Rested on the crack, too wide to finger jam, but too narrow to hand jam, ended up arkwardly laybacking. did the top faceclimbing section clean though.

with Dad
mux 29/May/09 -
with Simon and Andrea
frost 29/May/09 2nd
with D Garry, Andrea
DJayB 28/May/09 Lead O/S

Scary and hard! Went too high possibly? Still amazing however!

Hidden 06/May/09 2nd O/S
Paul ablitt 02/May/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/May/09 2nd β
Hidden 05/Apr/09 -
Dan 85 03/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Went to high initially. Gift at E3

with Tim
Pete Graham ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Rick Graham
Alex Mason 24/Mar/09 Lead rpt

After backing off T42.

andy gravestock 24/Mar/09 Lead β

one on my to do list has finally been done found the crack the hard thing to overcome though need to brush up on that but really enjoyed it nice.

Harald 02/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/09 2nd dog
Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
67hours 01/Mar/09 2nd

Ok, so I fell off part way up. Whatever.

with Doug
michaelja ?/Mar/09 2nd
Fraser13 ??/2009 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2009 -
Lev 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Oct/08 2nd dog
Hidden 28/Sep/08 2nd O/S
The Mountain Goat 20/Sep/08 2nd dog

Fell half way up the crack.

with George Taylor
Hidden 16/Sep/08 Lead O/S
mbutton ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Alex Adgar
AJ007 ?/Sep/08 Lead dog

2nd'd Dan Sep 2002

Tim Steward 29/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Steve Cayzer
Dangerous Dave 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Tim Rankin
datoon 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with K
Hidden 08/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Nicos 19/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with aiden jones
Matthallinan 19/Jun/08 2nd
with nickos
Hidden 13/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Franco Cookson OLD 02/Jun/08 Lead O/S
hun ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
lukehunt ?/Jun/08 2nd
with francocookson
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 31/May/08 Lead O/S
Ian Parnell 26/May/08 Lead O/S
with Jon Winter
MeMeMe 25/May/08 Lead dog

Fell off on the crack. My own fault for trying to layback a bit to ease the pain of the foot jamming. I think I could do with some stiffer shoes. Top was exciting.

ksjs 24/May/08 Lead dog

feet were not happy in the crack - felt tough

Luke Brooks 23/May/08 Lead O/S
with Andy Waring
mattyork2 17/Feb/08 Lead β
Kyuzo ??/2008 -
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
andy wa ??/2008 2nd
with Luke
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
The old James turnbull ??/2008 Lead
Mick r 04/Nov/07 2nd O/S

Fantastic Route - ready for the lead when it warms up again - glad I didn't use the photo's on here for Beta.

with Tom
Alan James - UKC and UKH 18/Oct/07 Lead
with Donna Claridge, Mick Ryan
chris j 07/Oct/07 TR O/S
with Doug
Rachel S 07/Oct/07 2nd
with Richard K
Rich Kirby 07/Oct/07 Lead rpt
Alex Mason 02/Oct/07 Lead rpt

to retreive toms gear, felt so confident on it

Oliver Sherman 08/Sep/07 TR dog

Too hard!

with Deniz Sumengen
KRB 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Nice clean route. Enjoyed it

with Martin Bridges
ksjs 13/Aug/07 Lead O/S

cool route. didnt feel THAT bold but it is thought-provoking and took me a while to decide how to approach the final moves. the crack itself is no pushover (socks maybe not such a bad idea). very worthwhile

with mark
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 11/Jul/07 Lead rpt
with Andy Cave
Hidden 20/May/07 Lead
Jim Vach 28/Apr/07 2nd
with Alek Scorupa
Alex Mason 24/Apr/07 Lead

went to high on first go and fell off trying to swap hands on a thin side pull. got back on and found it really easy lower.

Coel Hellier 14/Apr/07 Lead
feilx 09/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Apharri ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Andre Hedger
dannyboy83 ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
DavidEvans 27/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Toby Dunn
Toby Dunn 27/Mar/07 Lead
with Ruth
Hidden ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
bfreeman ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Bentwood ??/2007 Lead
Jus ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 28/Jul/06 Lead
Andrew Sloan 28/Jul/06 2nd dog
with Tony Ball
lukehunt ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Ian Jackson
Ram MkiV 21/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Alex
alaan 28/May/06 Lead O/S

Yep, 'ard for the short!

with Pete
mgeek ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Lynne Malcolm
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
ukb & bmc shark 19/Nov/05 TR
with Bruce Woodley
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd
duncan 30/May/05 2nd rpt
with Hugo Glover
Mark Riley ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Hidden ??/2005 -
ukb & bmc shark 01/Sep/04 Lead
with Jon Winter
Mark Stevenson 23/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Anni
Hidden ?/Jun/04 -
lukea 07/May/04 Lead O/S
with shannon
Hidden 25/Apr/04 Lead rpt
chrishedgehog ??/2004 Lead β
with Chris Bigger
DubyaJamesDubya 26/Jul/03 Lead O/S

second time I'd done it but led it in the traverse left style this time.

with Nik Howard, Martin Flint
Hidden ?/Jul/03 2nd O/S
Leofallon 28/Jun/03 -

Fell from crux, but not during the moves - just lost concentration momentarily! Brilliant. Probably my best lead ever

duncan 15/Jun/03 2nd
Hidden 12/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 21/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Simon Wren
Hidden ?/Sep/02 2nd
highlux ?/Mar/02 Lead O/S

Very nice route. Ok gear and an excellent crux section.

Hidden ??/2002 -
RossG123 ??/2002 Lead
Jonathan Richardson 27/Jul/01 2nd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/May/01 Lead
with Joe le Sage, Viv
Hidden 21/Apr/01 Lead
DubyaJamesDubya 08/Oct/00 Lead O/S

Led it in the 'diagonally up' style.

with Cedric Favre
Hidden 12/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/00 Lead
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Mark Davies PK ??/2000 Lead O/S
Brown ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Richi
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
tlr ??/2000 Lead
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Hidden 10/Jul/99 Lead
sadams 19/Jun/99 Lead
with John Fletcher
Hidden 19/Jun/99 Lead
Hidden 08/Jun/99 Lead O/S
chris sm 30/Aug/98 Lead rpt
with Ruth Taylor
Si Clapham ??/1998 Lead
with Moggs
Hidden ?/Oct/97 Lead O/S
chris sm ?/Jun/97 2nd O/S
with Jim Hall
Craig Barton ??/1997 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ??/1997 -

Climbed in slippers, what a mistake!!!

with Keith Bolton
Daniel Wrightson ??/1997 Lead O/S
pmot ?/Oct/95 2nd O/S
with Mr Lizard
Hidden ?/Sep/95 Lead O/S
D Tempest 05/Jun/95 2nd
with Rick
Hammy 02/Jun/95 2nd
with Colin Struthers
Hidden 13/May/95 Lead O/S
nokishatov 01/May/95 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 13/Apr/95 2nd
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 13/Apr/95 Lead
Hidden ??/1995 2nd
John Southworth ??/1995 -
mattnuttall 05/Oct/94 Lead O/S

SCUM trip

with Johanna
AlexRenshaw 25/Jun/94 Lead
with Ted Lister
Hidden 17/Jun/94 2nd
jamiev 05/Jun/94 Lead β
with Adrian Berry
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/94 2nd
with Bill G
rob.grafton 26/May/94 Lead
with Bruce
ste_d 23/May/94 2nd O/S
with mik
Hidden 12/May/94 Lead
andybirtwistle 30/Apr/94 Lead
with Liz Dolman
OMSKB ??/1994 Lead RP
with Richard Winfield
Dave Rumney ??/1994 2nd
with Dennis Wong
nai ??/1994 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 04/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with KM
IanD353 ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
AlanLittle ??/1993 Lead

Did the right hand cowards' finish, which I still (being crap at crack climbing) found hard for E1

with Rob Allen
mattnuttall 25/Jul/92 Solo O/S
Roget 04/May/92 Lead O/S
with Jonathan T
Hidden 11/Apr/92 Lead
rockaddiction 01/Jan/92 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/1992 Lead O/S
craig d ??/1992 -
Hidden ??/1992 -
crossleysm ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/91 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/91 2nd
sadams 21/Jun/91 Lead O/S
with Kev Mellieu
adi bryant 27/Apr/91 2nd
with Tim
Neil R ??/1990 2nd
with Howard
Gambit ?/Sep/89 Lead O/S
with Rob, Barney
Hidden 18/Jul/89 2nd
Rich Kirby ??/1989 Lead
Chris Ellis 02/Jul/88 2nd
with Andy Barker
goi.ashmore 27/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with Rich Brook
phardman 21/May/88 Lead O/S
with John Lloyd
Hidden 17/Apr/88 Lead
Bullybones ??/1988 -
Fakey Rocks 02/Aug/87 Lead O/S
Will Webb ?/May/87 Lead
with Mark Cole
Hidden ?/Apr/87 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1987 -
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
Eduardo Martinez ??/1987 Lead O/S
GordonHart ??/1987 2nd O/S
with Kevin
Bruce Kerr 28/Sep/86 Lead
with Alison Statham
Hidden 16/Aug/86 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/86 Lead
Hidden 03/Jul/86 2nd
Billg 07/Jun/86 Lead O/S
with Paul Guttridge
John Marsland 26/May/86 Lead O/S

1st E3

with Dave Mould
Alan James - UKC and UKH 26/Sep/85 Lead
Hidden 17/Aug/85 2nd
TonyF 10/May/85 2nd
with Steve Andrews, Tony Cox
AlexRenshaw 28/Apr/85 Lead
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Mike Owen 14/Oct/84 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Neil McA 30/Sep/84 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 19/Jun/84 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
Hidden ?/Apr/84 Lead
Tom V ??/1984 -
Andy Nicholson ?/Apr/83 Lead O/S
with Chez
Gezzer ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Andy Towne
Hidden 19/Oct/82 -
ewar woowar ??/1982 -
charlesmfrench ??/1982 2nd O/S
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead
with John Mayers, Rich Lewis etc
Andy Stephenson 05/Jun/81 Lead O/S

The hard bit is very short and there is an encouraging hold above, but you need to get it right first time.

with Barrie Dixon
Hidden 23/May/81 2nd
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 2nd
with Derek Hersey
daviesxxx ?/Jun/80 Lead O/S

scary at top

with jjk
Rob Davies 10/May/80 2nd dog

Floundered on the initial 5b finger crack but did the 5c wall OK - lot of room for improvement

with Martin Moran
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Robmwatt ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Mark Kemball 22/Sep/79 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/1979 Lead
with Mick Hardwick
petemeads ??/1977 Lead O/S

Early ascent, pleasant climbing (for Millstone).

with don't remember
Steve Lewis 14/Aug/76 2nd
with Phil Thomas, sharpie
Al Evans ??/1976 -
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High E4
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High 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
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Style of ascent
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