UKC

Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

22m.

Rockfax Description
A tough little expedition - the easiest way to the summit, but not that easy and best done in two short pitches to avoid a rope-work nightmare.
1) 4c, 6m. Follow Croton Oil then move right to a crack,which leads to ledges behind the tower.
2) 4c, 14m. From the right end of these, hand traverse the break strenuously out right to the rickety flake to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Don Wooller 1950.

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , On Peak Rock , Rockfax Eastern Grit: Peaks and Pinnacles , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak , Peak Traverses

Feedback

User Date Notes
DannyC 22 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: realitively hard for vs but the move isn't too hard if you commit rather than pump yourself out as i did the first time i tried this a few months back. went back yesterday and it felt fine, though not much easier than croton oil. rope drag is an issue. 2(or3?) pitches for sure. lovely route. enjoy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: realitively hard for vs but the move isn't too hard if you commit rather than pump yourself out as i did the first time i tried this a few months back. went back yesterday and it felt fine, though not much easier than croton oil. rope drag is an issue. 2(or3?) pitches for sure. lovely route. enjoy.
Reds 20 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Great fun - a bit of a laugh battling your way up the start to find that you are still only three feet off the ground!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great fun - a bit of a laugh battling your way up the start to find that you are still only three feet off the ground!

Logged Ascents

349 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Rivelin Edge

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 75 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 40
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Obscenity

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Burbage North)

Loading Notifications...