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10m.

Rockfax Description
10m. A mini-classic, intense and varied, packing a lot of climbing into a short distance. Gain the undercut flake with difficulty and follow it to its end where scary friction and pebble moves lead leftwards up a ramp to easy ground. Best climbed when the boggy area below the route is in prime condition, making falling off even less desirable (but safer) than normal. © Rockfax

FA. Andrew Woodward 1974

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit

Feedback

User Date Notes
wig 20 Jan, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: fantatsic, my first E3, found the top out quite scary
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: fantatsic, my first E3, found the top out quite scary
Andrew Barker 11 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Scary onsight, especially when lack of chalk, lots of nervous sweating and gusts of wind endeavour to drag you off the tenuous smears! Awesome route, worth every star.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Scary onsight, especially when lack of chalk, lots of nervous sweating and gusts of wind endeavour to drag you off the tenuous smears! Awesome route, worth every star.
stu 29 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Stunning. Easily one of the best routes I have done on grit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Stunning. Easily one of the best routes I have done on grit.
Ropeboy 23 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very enjoyable route, faith in your feet pays divedens.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very enjoyable route, faith in your feet pays divedens.
ap 24 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: i am glad u can get some friends in, cos i wouldnt have done it without. scary.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i am glad u can get some friends in, cos i wouldnt have done it without. scary.
Ricardo 13 Feb, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I'd give this one E4 - its quite necky and tricksome
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd give this one E4 - its quite necky and tricksome
Iain McTaggart 20 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A friend of mine fell off this. His belayer (not me) got his hand sucked into the belay device. The skin between thumb and forefinger. He let out a terrific scream and had to yank his hand out leaving behind a big lump of flesh and skin. Spent the rest of the day with a plastic carrier bag over his hand as it was the only first aid we had.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A friend of mine fell off this. His belayer (not me) got his hand sucked into the belay device. The skin between thumb and forefinger. He let out a terrific scream and had to yank his hand out leaving behind a big lump of flesh and skin. Spent the rest of the day with a plastic carrier bag over his hand as it was the only first aid we had.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Graeme Hammond 29 Oct, 2019 Lead RP Mega
Mega
Hidden 29 Oct, 2019 TR dog
deruiter14 14 Apr, 2019 2nd O/S hoped on to second it after dropping a rope for someone questioning the top out. keen to lead it.
hoped on to second it after dropping a rope for someone questioning the top out. keen to lead it.
Hidden 31 Mar, 2019 Lead β
adamraymondwhite 2 Mar, 2019 Solo dnf Couldn't commit to the top out
Couldn't commit to the top out
NinaR 29 Sep, 2018 2nd dog Mega fail.
Mega fail.
Rp20 2 Sep, 2018 Lead dnf Excellent fun. Belayed by wiggy. Placed several pieces in the flake. Fell at the mantel on the onsight attempt. Hit the deck, luckily onto the pad. A real gritty climb and looking forward to colder temperatures for the next attempt.
with Elliot, Wiggy Moore , Marianne Heikkala
Excellent fun. Belayed by wiggy. Placed several pieces in the flake. Fell at the mantel on the onsight attempt. Hit the deck, luckily onto the pad. A real gritty climb and looking forward to colder temperatures for the next attempt.
with Elliot, Wiggy Moore , Marianne Heikkala
Rob Houston ??, 2018 -
themattyshep 26 Aug, 2017 Lead dnf
Mike W 5 Apr, 2017 2nd β
Andrew Abraham 5 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt
with Mike W
with Mike W
manwithacam 2 Apr, 2017 Lead Fell off first time, after making the steps left onto the ramp and just contemplating the top out. Think I just lost my balance and fell backwards. Quite a fall. Got back on and topped it out. Pretty scary, pretty hard, pretty good!
with Mark Grist
Fell off first time, after making the steps left onto the ramp and just contemplating the top out. Think I just lost my balance and fell backwards. Quite a fall. Got back on and topped it out. Pretty scary, pretty hard, pretty good!
with Mark Grist
The Grist 2 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
with Dan Metcalfe
with Dan Metcalfe
James Oakes 25 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Scary towards the top. Felt like E4.
Scary towards the top. Felt like E4.
jimlear ??, 2017 Lead β I thought I was going to die. Last time I ever take Critchlow’s advice.
with Jay
I thought I was going to die. Last time I ever take Critchlow’s advice.
with Jay
Jack2222 ??, 2017 Lead
Ids1165 ??, 2017 Lead
Tom.Priestley 22 May, 2016 Solo O/S Did the boulder start second go abvove mats then managed to commit to the pebbles on the upper part which was climbed O/S. Thought it was going to be one hard move, it wasn't. Scary, and felt like I perhaps should have had a rope.
with Hinkley Honkley, tunnah, Scott Quinn
Did the boulder start second go abvove mats then managed to commit to the pebbles on the upper part which was climbed O/S. Thought it was going to be one hard move, it wasn't. Scary, and felt like I perhaps should have had a rope.
with Hinkley Honkley, tunnah, Scott Quinn
Hugobristol 17 Mar, 2016 Lead G/U Got so scared on this one. Bouldered the start then went for the lead. The slab difficulties were much more long lasting than i had hoped- probably due to me overgripping and not trusting smears- still you wouldnt want to drop the last move..
with Thom
Got so scared on this one. Bouldered the start then went for the lead. The slab difficulties were much more long lasting than i had hoped- probably due to me overgripping and not trusting smears- still you wouldnt want to drop the last move..
with Thom
Hidden 17 Mar, 2016 2nd
deacondeacon u 27 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S On sighted it once I'd Sussed getting off the floor :) Took an eternity on this as the top out was wet and green. Defo go and check the finishing holds first if you're getting on this.
On sighted it once I'd Sussed getting off the floor :) Took an eternity on this as the top out was wet and green. Defo go and check the finishing holds first if you're getting on this.
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Sam Cooper 15 Apr, 2015 Sent O/S
Rob Gillespie 10 Apr, 2015 Lead dnf Poor effort! Fell trying to top out to early should of carried on further along the ramp. I'll be back when it's colder I think.
Poor effort! Fell trying to top out to early should of carried on further along the ramp. I'll be back when it's colder I think.
td72 9 Mar, 2015 Solo RP Top roped a couple of times, cleaned it up then got it on solo
Top roped a couple of times, cleaned it up then got it on solo
thomas108 ??, 2015 Lead G/U
Tom.Priestley 20 Sep, 2014 Sent dnf Got up to the pebbly step right and came down as it was a bit high. Was going to come back with a rope but midges scared us off.
Got up to the pebbly step right and came down as it was a bit high. Was going to come back with a rope but midges scared us off.
Scott Quinn 20 Sep, 2014 Sent dnf V2 to the pebble rock over above the flake, we both looked at topping out but decided we wanted to rope! fucking midges
V2 to the pebble rock over above the flake, we both looked at topping out but decided we wanted to rope! fucking midges
Andrew Abraham 27 Aug, 2014 Lead rpt
with Sam Riley, Ceara
with Sam Riley, Ceara
Will Murphy 12 Jun, 2014 Solo RP
Hidden 13 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
AndrewJamesCherry 1 Mar, 2014 Lead Fantastic varied climbing! Lead after bouldering out the crux start.
Fantastic varied climbing! Lead after bouldering out the crux start.
Samuel Wainwright 24 Feb, 2013 Lead dog
ianstevens 24 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S
phillipwright ? Jan, 2013 Lead
dom_joyce265 ? Jan, 2013 2nd O/S
phillipwright ??, 2013 Lead RP the pebble.
the pebble.
Hidden ? Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 1 Apr, 2012 Lead RP Had climbed to the bottom of the flake previously when bouldering in the cave at the bottom
Had climbed to the bottom of the flake previously when bouldering in the cave at the bottom
jacobjacob 25 Feb, 2012 Solo rpt above some pads.
above some pads.
Hidden 25 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S
maddy.c ??, 2012 -
James82 2 Oct, 2011 Sent x
robman 30 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
fennerz 8 May, 2011 Sent O/S Amazing! Must admit i was shaking a bit even before i committed to the slab :P
with Sean Grady
Amazing! Must admit i was shaking a bit even before i committed to the slab :P
with Sean Grady
grady ? May, 2011 Solo O/S above a couple of small pads
above a couple of small pads
Hidden 26 Mar, 2011 Solo dnf
Hidden 19 Jan, 2011 Solo dnf
Jacob Bloodworth ? Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
infected mushroom ??, 2011 -
adie84 ??, 2011 -
phil64 18 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S awesome!!
with tim hunter
awesome!!
with tim hunter
will randall ? Aug, 2010 TR O/S
with sarah
with sarah
Hidden 6 Jul, 2010 TR
Pippa 4 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
DorsetGareth 4 Jul, 2010 2nd RP Really sketchy - well done Pip!
with Pippa
Really sketchy - well done Pip!
with Pippa
jacobjacob 6 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
i_a_coops ? Jun, 2010 Lead β
willoates 30 Jan, 2010 Lead dnf Fell 1st time on the rock over... second time fell from the last move over the top, ended up about a 1 meter off the floor thanks to lawrences quick feet... cheers loz
with lawrence
Fell 1st time on the rock over... second time fell from the last move over the top, ended up about a 1 meter off the floor thanks to lawrences quick feet... cheers loz
with lawrence
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
kingholmesy ??, 2010 Solo O/S
Ebarnes ??, 2010 -
Pete Graham 18 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
with malx
with malx
chris sm 20 Sep, 2009 Lead dnf Hmmm..... just bottled it really.
with Pippa Froggatt
Hmmm..... just bottled it really.
with Pippa Froggatt
mic_b u 13 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with James Blake
with James Blake
quiffhanger 26 Jul, 2009 Lead
Hidden 26 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S
chris m fisher 26 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Dan M
with Dan M
DannyK 4 Apr, 2009 TR O/S
with pep
with pep
nige 20 Feb, 2009 Lead
with john reti
with john reti
northy1983 ? Feb, 2009 Solo RP
Tobes ? Feb, 2009 Lead dnf couldn't make the left move onto pebbles, well tried but ended up in the cave. gears good, ran out of time to finish....will be back
with Alex
couldn't make the left move onto pebbles, well tried but ended up in the cave. gears good, ran out of time to finish....will be back
with Alex
Luke Brooks u 22 Nov, 2008 Lead O/S
with Tom Wild
with Tom Wild
ChrisDavis 14 Sep, 2008 2nd β
will9911 14 Sep, 2008 Lead RP blew the onsight after my foot popped off a pebble unexpectedly as i was placing a tiny cam furthur up the flake so a bit of a shock to fall and swing into the cave about a foot from the floor, luckily the nuts were bomber!.sketchy moves furthur up tho on some dodgy cams in the top of the flake , my first E3!!
blew the onsight after my foot popped off a pebble unexpectedly as i was placing a tiny cam furthur up the flake so a bit of a shock to fall and swing into the cave about a foot from the floor, luckily the nuts were bomber!.sketchy moves furthur up tho on some dodgy cams in the top of the flake , my first E3!!
Mr Wild 10 May, 2008 Lead dnf couldn't make the step left onto the pepple, i think its a winter route lol
couldn't make the step left onto the pepple, i think its a winter route lol
Hidden 25 Apr, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2008 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??, 2008 TR
Hidden 7 May, 2007 TR β
gregoritos ? Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 28 Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
with dave evans
with dave evans
Brian Rodgers ??, 2007 2nd
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
philhilo ??, 2007 Lead O/S Remember spending a long time fruitlessly looking for some more holds at the top!
Remember spending a long time fruitlessly looking for some more holds at the top!
dan gibson 18 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Hidden 7 Aug, 2006 Lead
Pythonist 7 Aug, 2006 Lead dnf Failed to step out onto the upper scoop... again!
with teapot
Failed to step out onto the upper scoop... again!
with teapot
Hidden 29 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
feilx 29 Jul, 2006 2nd
Dan Arkle 5 Mar, 2006 Lead
UKB Shark 5 Mar, 2006 2nd
UKB Shark 28 Jan, 2006 2nd rpt
with Mike Garton
with Mike Garton
Hidden 21 Jan, 2006 Solo O/S
Hidden ? Oct, 2005 Lead
Ropeboy 20 Feb, 2005 Lead
mark s ??, 2005 -
Tom Briggs u ??, 2005 -
mbutton ? Sep, 2004 Lead β
with Gus Hudgens
with Gus Hudgens
DubyaJamesDubya 25 Jun, 2003 Lead O/S Nice contrast between the upper and lower sections of the route.
with Nik Howard
Nice contrast between the upper and lower sections of the route.
with Nik Howard
Hidden ? May, 2003 Lead dnf
Dave Musgrove Jnr u ? Jun, 2002 Lead O/S
with Viv
with Viv
sadams ? Apr, 2001 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
with Eric Hildrew
petekeron ??, 2001 TR RP
Dave Bond ??, 2001 Lead O/S
with rob seward
with rob seward
Hidden 27 Dec, 2000 Lead O/S
Gus 19 Oct, 2000 Lead O/S
Strong Steve 10 Jun, 2000 Lead O/S
philhilo ??, 2000 -
tlr ??, 2000 Lead
with nai
with nai
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead O/S
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2000 -
Hidden 5 Jun, 1999 Lead
tuftynick u ??, 1999 Lead
with ciaran troup
with ciaran troup
Hidden 8 Aug, 1998 2nd
Hidden ? Jun, 1998 Solo O/S
Rob Kinsey ??, 1998 -
AlexRenshaw 1 Jun, 1997 Lead
richsmithinbristol 3 May, 1997 Lead O/S Best grit experience so far! Amazing pebbles and smears on top traverse.
Best grit experience so far! Amazing pebbles and smears on top traverse.
Si Witcher ??, 1997 Lead 1 fall
1 fall
UKB Shark 10 May, 1996 Lead O/S
with Pete Cole
with Pete Cole
WB ? Apr, 1996 Lead O/S
with Stu
with Stu
DavidBarraclough ??, 1996 Lead O/S
robtrooper ??, 1996 -
nai ??, 1995 Lead
Hidden ? Apr, 1994 Lead O/S
Chris Reid ? May, 1993 Lead O/S
with Oliver Allen
with Oliver Allen
Mark Kemball u 15 Apr, 1993 Lead
with Bill Kemball
with Bill Kemball
ste_d 12 Apr, 1993 Solo O/S
Sean Kelly ? Apr, 1993 Lead dnf Jumped off after bouldering out the start. No gear on this!
with Pete Carmichael
Jumped off after bouldering out the start. No gear on this!
with Pete Carmichael
Carl Hamer ??, 1993 TR dog
crossleysm ??, 1993 Lead O/S
Woody63 18 Jul, 1992 2nd Led crux and backed off top slab. Dave completed it on top rope that he'd failed to clip properly.
Led crux and backed off top slab. Dave completed it on top rope that he'd failed to clip properly.
Hidden 18 Jul, 1992 Lead
andrew300169 5 Jul, 1992 Lead dnf
with Tim
with Tim
Hidden 27 May, 1992 TR
samt 13 Oct, 1991 TR Why so much top ropping!!?
Why so much top ropping!!?
adi bryant 2 Oct, 1991 Lead RP
with Tim
with Tim
Hidden 8 May, 1991 2nd
Rich Kirby 6 May, 1991 Lead
with Andy Mackay
with Andy Mackay
Duncan I ? May, 1991 2nd
Roget 27 Apr, 1991 Lead G/U Fell off on previous attempt
with jon
Fell off on previous attempt
with jon
channinga ??, 1991 -
Billg ? Sep, 1990 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
with Dave Gregory
Hidden 27 May, 1990 2nd
SB_NWUK_99 ??, 1990 2nd β Seconded in the early 1990s.
Seconded in the early 1990s.
Eduardo Martinez ??, 1990 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy u 14 May, 1989 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 11 Mar, 1989 Lead O/S
with Ken Padgett
with Ken Padgett
Hidden 23 Jun, 1988 TR
Hidden ??, 1986 Lead O/S
Tom V ??, 1986 TR
AlexRenshaw 3 Nov, 1985 Lead
with Sean Myles
with Sean Myles
Hidden ??, 1983 Lead
Paul Clarke ??, 1983 Lead O/S
with FMC
with FMC
Hidden ??, 1982 Lead
Andy Stephenson ??, 1982 TR O/S
51 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 64
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 54
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Swan

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)