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10m.

Rockfax Description
10m. A mini-classic, intense and varied, packing a lot of climbing into a short distance. Gain the undercut flake with difficulty and follow it to its end where scary friction and pebble moves lead leftwards up a ramp to easy ground. Best climbed when the boggy area below the route is in prime condition, making falling off even less desirable (but safer) than normal. © Rockfax

FA. Andrew Woodward 1974.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

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User Date Notes
Andrew Barker 11 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Scary onsight, especially when lack of chalk, lots of nervous sweating and gusts of wind endeavour to drag you off the tenuous smears! Awesome route, worth every star.
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βeta: Scary onsight, especially when lack of chalk, lots of nervous sweating and gusts of wind endeavour to drag you off the tenuous smears! Awesome route, worth every star.
stu 29 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Stunning. Easily one of the best routes I have done on grit.
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βeta: Stunning. Easily one of the best routes I have done on grit.
Ropeboy 23 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very enjoyable route, faith in your feet pays divedens.
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βeta: Very enjoyable route, faith in your feet pays divedens.
ap 24 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: i am glad u can get some friends in, cos i wouldnt have done it without. scary.
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βeta: i am glad u can get some friends in, cos i wouldnt have done it without. scary.
Ricardo 13 Feb, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I'd give this one E4 - its quite necky and tricksome
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βeta: I'd give this one E4 - its quite necky and tricksome
Iain McTaggart 20 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A friend of mine fell off this. His belayer (not me) got his hand sucked into the belay device. The skin between thumb and forefinger. He let out a terrific scream and had to yank his hand out leaving behind a big lump of flesh and skin. Spent the rest of the day with a plastic carrier bag over his hand as it was the only first aid we had.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A friend of mine fell off this. His belayer (not me) got his hand sucked into the belay device. The skin between thumb and forefinger. He let out a terrific scream and had to yank his hand out leaving behind a big lump of flesh and skin. Spent the rest of the day with a plastic carrier bag over his hand as it was the only first aid we had.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 65
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 55
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Hunky Dory

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)