UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
A classic frightener with sustained balance climbing. Climb the blunt rib above the rhododendrons delicately to the bulges and make committing moves up and right to reach a crack, runners and easy ground - phew! © Rockfax

FA. John Yates 1970.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Peak Rock/11/Gritstone in the Seventies. , 3 Star Graded , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

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User Date Notes
Gary Gibson 22 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: This is one of the best routes of its type on the lower tier: so aesthetic and technically pleasing..it was a regular solo of mine in the late Seventies..so beautiful
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is one of the best routes of its type on the lower tier: so aesthetic and technically pleasing..it was a regular solo of mine in the late Seventies..so beautiful
Dave Pritchard 28 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route; much better than Chalkstorm and a real E4!! Leading the bottom part felt harder than I thought it would be, and the step across certainly got the adrenalin going.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route; much better than Chalkstorm and a real E4!! Leading the bottom part felt harder than I thought it would be, and the step across certainly got the adrenalin going.
ampfryer 30 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: agree with John B - every move needs footwork and balance. If you are going to lob before the step right - the rhododendrons break your fall - I know this for a fact! - Alternative...up the groove of Rhodren, nut in roof, pocket in the back and crank out to the crack of Death Knell. Involves a difficult backward step to the "nose". Hard but well protected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: agree with John B - every move needs footwork and balance. If you are going to lob before the step right - the rhododendrons break your fall - I know this for a fact! - Alternative...up the groove of Rhodren, nut in roof, pocket in the back and crank out to the crack of Death Knell. Involves a difficult backward step to the "nose". Hard but well protected.

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Guidebooks for Roaches Lower Tier

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High E5
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Votes cast 19
High 6a
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Votes cast 20
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Super Girdle

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)

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