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22m.

Rockfax Description
22m. An fine route up an elegant buttress. Start at the left arete then spiral up and right following cracks to the opposite arete. Place small wires before following the parallel diagonal cracks to an exposed and awkward finale back on the left-hand arete. Excellent throughout and very varied climbing. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1978.

Ticklists

BMC staffordshire slab exam, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The List

Feedback

User Date Notes
gav p 4 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Good gear at start of the traverse. Moves on the traverse are very thin for your hands, but with decent feet, just don't lunge for the jug at the end! Tough for the grade, almost worth E2.
βeta?
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βeta: Good gear at start of the traverse. Moves on the traverse are very thin for your hands, but with decent feet, just don't lunge for the jug at the end! Tough for the grade, almost worth E2.
GrahamD 22 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: There is nothing actually hard on this route - probably only just 5b. Just the commitment of the traverse gives it the grade.
βeta?
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βeta: There is nothing actually hard on this route - probably only just 5b. Just the commitment of the traverse gives it the grade.
nate 18 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Decided to do this using one rope, not sure why, but it was a bit more interesting with all the rope drag.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Decided to do this using one rope, not sure why, but it was a bit more interesting with all the rope drag.
samwelli 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Really enjoyable, gear spaced but good, traverse is fairly intense with route easing once the final arete is gained.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really enjoyable, gear spaced but good, traverse is fairly intense with route easing once the final arete is gained.
Andrew Barker 1 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route, the parallel cracks are very committing and I only realised once I had crossed the buttress that my last bit of gear was 15ft away and only about 3ft below me! Final move a stretch for the short.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome route, the parallel cracks are very committing and I only realised once I had crossed the buttress that my last bit of gear was 15ft away and only about 3ft below me! Final move a stretch for the short.
chris j 30 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Scary traverse back left!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Scary traverse back left!!

Logged Ascents

589 users have logged this
130 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 131
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 129
Votes cast 121
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Encouragement

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Hen Cloud)