UKC

10m.

Rockfax Description
The ultra-sketchy slab left of Piece of Mind is easy (ish) on a top-rope, but a mighty-bold solo. Some say it is only E7 6b but only those who are interviewed while balancing precariously at the top of the slab are really allowed to comment. © Rockfax

FA. Julian Lines. Julian fell off it and was unharmed before he made the first ascent 1992.

Ticklists

BMC staffordshire slab exam, Best slab climbs of the UK, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The Shock Of The New, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

Feedback

User Date Notes
mark s 16 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Done on a shunt today. Lacking the pebbles from when I soloed it 18 years ago. Not over hard but 2 big rock ups, 1 on a poor smear. Going have to repeat now.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Done on a shunt today. Lacking the pebbles from when I soloed it 18 years ago. Not over hard but 2 big rock ups, 1 on a poor smear. Going have to repeat now.
Dave Pritchard 7 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I am not sure that it is 6c. I found the few other 6cs that I have done much harder (for the record I flashed Obsession on top rope, repeated it on a couple of other occasions and then did it on the sharp end)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I am not sure that it is 6c. I found the few other 6cs that I have done much harder (for the record I flashed Obsession on top rope, repeated it on a couple of other occasions and then did it on the sharp end)
Ally Smith 31 Oct, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Oli, is that Dave's ascent your talking about?
 
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βeta: Oli, is that Dave's ascent your talking about?
Adam Lincoln 1 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Oli! Do tell more?....!
 
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βeta: Oli! Do tell more?....!
mark s 20 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: a good slab route only the top moves tricky,avoid gear in the chipped hold
 
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βeta: a good slab route only the top moves tricky,avoid gear in the chipped hold
carl dawson 20 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: On a cold dry day, shocking straight forward... until the final couple of moves. Must be terrifying to lead; so if toproping take extreme care to avoid clumsy footwork or rope damage.
 
Show beta
βeta: On a cold dry day, shocking straight forward... until the final couple of moves. Must be terrifying to lead; so if toproping take extreme care to avoid clumsy footwork or rope damage.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E9
Mid E9
Low E9
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 16
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Pieces of Eight

Grade: E8 7a ***
(Wright's Rock Area)
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