UKC

26m.

Rockfax Description
An elegant pitch requiring commitment on the traverse. Climb thin cracks to where they fade, place a high runner, then tiptoe round the bulge and traverse right until a stiff pull is needed to reach the continuation crack. A runner on the tree to the right can be used to shorten the pendulum if you muff the traverse.
Up the Swanee, E4 5c. As for The Swan but make the traverse with your feet in the higher break instead of your hands. Twice as gripping as The Swan and especially so for the toppling tall. © Rockfax

FA. John Gosling (why didn't he call it The Goose?) one peg 1969 FFA. Ron Fawcett 1977.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The List, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

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User Date Notes
Alpinelegend69 8 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route. Done after Elegy and didn’t feel quite as out there...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route. Done after Elegy and didn’t feel quite as out there...
Fiend 15 Jan, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: An exciting voyage along an interesting line of weakness. The fingerholds are joyous, and both cruxes are most satisfying - though be warned, at the time of writing the base of the final crack is pretty green and dank, and it would be frightening scrabble in damp conditions.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An exciting voyage along an interesting line of weakness. The fingerholds are joyous, and both cruxes are most satisfying - though be warned, at the time of writing the base of the final crack is pretty green and dank, and it would be frightening scrabble in damp conditions.
FedUp 19 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Difficult move around the bulge but toproped and obviously safe. Difficult move to the rounded break where I couldn't get a runner. Smeared rightwards and managed to runner the bottom of the wide crack. Gripping but ace!
βeta?
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βeta: Difficult move around the bulge but toproped and obviously safe. Difficult move to the rounded break where I couldn't get a runner. Smeared rightwards and managed to runner the bottom of the wide crack. Gripping but ace!
sutty 20 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: On the FA John did not want to use a peg but it was too dangerous without till small nuts came out. Try it without modern pro to see his dilemma.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: On the FA John did not want to use a peg but it was too dangerous without till small nuts came out. Try it without modern pro to see his dilemma.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 39
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

San Melas

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Roaches Skyline)
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