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28m.

Rockfax Description
28m. A long and elegant pitch up the steep jamming cracks in the arete. Climb the crack and the bulges to a rest at the base of the flake on the regular climb. Finish as for the normal route, or via the tricky bulging short-cut crack just right of the arete. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown, Don Whillans (The Dream Team) 1951.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Roaches HVS Challenge, The V.S.+ Ticklist, Michelle's crack ticklist, An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District, Peak District Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
mb_manchester 20 Sep Show βeta
βeta: I'd be happy with E1 grade - purely on the exposure front. going through the crack is tricky and if you start panicking pass it, then you are likely to have a very emotional experience in deed. if you don't take the right gear to protect the big gap, then you are potentially looking at a very exposed traverse. the upper section is easy but going around the corner with the rope isn't easy either. that said, it is probably as hard (physically) as The Sloth but mentally (with or without the right gear) probably above HVS
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd be happy with E1 grade - purely on the exposure front. going through the crack is tricky and if you start panicking pass it, then you are likely to have a very emotional experience in deed. if you don't take the right gear to protect the big gap, then you are potentially looking at a very exposed traverse. the upper section is easy but going around the corner with the rope isn't easy either. that said, it is probably as hard (physically) as The Sloth but mentally (with or without the right gear) probably above HVS
Smelly Fox 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Quality route! Neither of the hard sections are more than 5b if you can jam. There are harder HVS's at the roaches but this is still no soft touch!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quality route! Neither of the hard sections are more than 5b if you can jam. There are harder HVS's at the roaches but this is still no soft touch!
daveagriff 14 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I did it about 15 years ago and went straight up the bulging crack. I thought about 5b as that was my top grade and it was a bit of a fight. Gear ok if I recall correctly
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I did it about 15 years ago and went straight up the bulging crack. I thought about 5b as that was my top grade and it was a bit of a fight. Gear ok if I recall correctly
UKB Shark 25 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The new BMC guide shows this route finishing up a wide crack just above the Valkyrie (normale) crux which I found desperate and surely not HVS ( I am ashamed to say I pulled on a piece of gear) Which is the right way to go?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The new BMC guide shows this route finishing up a wide crack just above the Valkyrie (normale) crux which I found desperate and surely not HVS ( I am ashamed to say I pulled on a piece of gear) Which is the right way to go?
mark s 1 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: the crux is safe(vs)not much harder than valkyrie(5a)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the crux is safe(vs)not much harder than valkyrie(5a)

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 43
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Saul's Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)