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32m.

Rockfax Description
32m. A long and wandering trip up the huge buttress, which can be split into two or three pitches if required to ease rope drag problems. Start below a battered holly on the right-hand side of the buttress and climb glazed rock to the roof (4c). Escape out left passing the holly to ledges (possible stance) then climb to the left-hand corner of the huge roof by a choice of ways (4a - possible stance). Continue to runners then reach a flake on the right wall of the gully with difficulty. Once established, finish out right on the front of the buttress (4c). It is also possible to start on the left-hand edge of the buttress where a short pumpy traverse right leads to the regular route - a lot less polished but, historically, a rather dubious approach. © Rockfax

FA. Morley Wood early 1920s.

Ticklists

Classic Rock, ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, 100 Western Grit Stars, Darrencabowabo,s hit list, World Graded List, ULMC Classics, MUMC Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, Adventure ticklist 2018, The Gritlist, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
shaun walby 15 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent stuff, helps if you know excactly were your heading on the start of the second pitch.
βeta?
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βeta: Excellent stuff, helps if you know excactly were your heading on the start of the second pitch.
Furzy Sleight 14 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: interesting if done in one long pitch!
βeta?
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βeta: interesting if done in one long pitch!
Duz Walker 21 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful.Done when everything horizontal was snow on ice on rock. Unintentional variant middle pitch cross from the twin cracks above the ledge to gain the second belay ledge, exciting span! 3rd pitch a sublime meander. Run out, rope drag and a flop into an icy puddle (all avoidable by those with an ounce of sense).
βeta?
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βeta: Wonderful.Done when everything horizontal was snow on ice on rock. Unintentional variant middle pitch cross from the twin cracks above the ledge to gain the second belay ledge, exciting span! 3rd pitch a sublime meander. Run out, rope drag and a flop into an icy puddle (all avoidable by those with an ounce of sense).
MJS 10 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This is an excellent route and friendly at the grade. The holds are shiny but not slippery (when dry). We took 3 pitches and each one was excellent. ONe of the best VSs I've ever done
βeta?
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βeta: This is an excellent route and friendly at the grade. The holds are shiny but not slippery (when dry). We took 3 pitches and each one was excellent. ONe of the best VSs I've ever done
Alex "wurzel" Thurgood 26 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: And it's even more fun/desperate in the rain...Oh those bygone years at Keele Uni, where all we could think about was hitching/bussing out to the Roaches and scaring ourselves s**tless.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: And it's even more fun/desperate in the rain...Oh those bygone years at Keele Uni, where all we could think about was hitching/bussing out to the Roaches and scaring ourselves s**tless.

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Route of Interest

Bachelor's Climb

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Hen Cloud)