A long and wandering trip up the huge buttress, which can be split into two or three pitches if required to ease rope drag problems. Start below a battered holly on the right-hand side of the buttress and climb glazed rock to the roof (4c). Escape out left passing the holly to ledges (possible stance) then climb to the left-hand corner of the huge roof by a choice of ways (4a - possible stance). Continue to runners then reach a flake on the right wall of the gully with difficulty. Once established, finish out right on the front of the buttress (4c). It is also possible to start on the left-hand edge of the buttress where a short pumpy traverse right leads to the regular route - a lot less polished but, historically, a rather dubious approach. © Rockfax
FA. Morley Wood early 1920s.
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