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8m.

Rockfax Description
8m. The thin crack in the right wall of the chimney deserves its name (and 5c) if you don't use the footholds behind you! © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, 100 Western Grit Stars

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User Date Notes
Col Allott 21 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: ...p.s. probably only deserves the * if you DO use the holds behind you because of the varied climbing and interesting moves, especially leaving the bridging positions.
βeta?
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βeta: ...p.s. probably only deserves the * if you DO use the holds behind you because of the varied climbing and interesting moves, especially leaving the bridging positions.
Col Allott 21 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: An unsatisfactory and spoilt line graded at 5c (according to BMC guide) if you don't use the holds behind you. Best investing your time and effort in a 3* 5c route like San Melas
βeta?
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βeta: An unsatisfactory and spoilt line graded at 5c (according to BMC guide) if you don't use the holds behind you. Best investing your time and effort in a 3* 5c route like San Melas
Skyfall 9 Dec, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I think the holds on the wall behind must be "in" at the grade. Which is still a stiff 4c. Although pro does not look promising from below (the crack appearing to be "blind"), it does in fact come to hand at precisely the right moment(s) - in fact well protected. Some very nice lay-away moves. Most enjoyable, safe, technical and memorable climbing.
βeta?
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βeta: I think the holds on the wall behind must be "in" at the grade. Which is still a stiff 4c. Although pro does not look promising from below (the crack appearing to be "blind"), it does in fact come to hand at precisely the right moment(s) - in fact well protected. Some very nice lay-away moves. Most enjoyable, safe, technical and memorable climbing.
Simon Caldwell 20 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The old definitive guide describes the route as using the footholds on the left in order to get started. When did they become 'forbidden'?
βeta?
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βeta: The old definitive guide describes the route as using the footholds on the left in order to get started. When did they become 'forbidden'?
Robo 6 May, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: It deserves it's name if you don't use the footholds on the arete behind. The top few moves are great fun though.
βeta?
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βeta: It deserves it's name if you don't use the footholds on the arete behind. The top few moves are great fun though.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 47
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 42
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Bachelor's Climb

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Hen Cloud)