UKC

8m.

Rockfax Description
8m. The centre of the slab to a move right at half height and a delicate finish. The start is bold but the smeary upper slab is protected by large cams in the break. © Rockfax

FA. Andrew Woodward 1977.

Ticklists

BMC staffordshire slab exam, Best slab climbs of the UK, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge, 3 Star Graded, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), James' Winter Grit ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jus 19 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Christ I loved this route. Proper awesome smeary wonderfulness, it felt so good. Best slab route I've done in ages.
βeta?
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βeta: Christ I loved this route. Proper awesome smeary wonderfulness, it felt so good. Best slab route I've done in ages.
Aly 22 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: One of the most over-rated routes around, hardly worth 3 stars.
βeta?
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βeta: One of the most over-rated routes around, hardly worth 3 stars.
Andrew Barker 20 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route, felt a bit commiting rocking up to the break, then had to have my large cam thrown up to me as the break was fatter than I thought! Top moves were fantastic high and insecure rockovers. Less fantastic was the fact that I got a cam caught in the pull loop on the back of my left boot while rocking up! I couldn't move up and thought the only way was down. Luckily I calmed down and bent my leg a little more so it unhooked itself, then climbed to the top and swore my head off in relief!
βeta?
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βeta: Awesome route, felt a bit commiting rocking up to the break, then had to have my large cam thrown up to me as the break was fatter than I thought! Top moves were fantastic high and insecure rockovers. Less fantastic was the fact that I got a cam caught in the pull loop on the back of my left boot while rocking up! I couldn't move up and thought the only way was down. Luckily I calmed down and bent my leg a little more so it unhooked itself, then climbed to the top and swore my head off in relief!
Andy Clarke 27 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route. Don't be put off if your foot slips when testing the crucial smear. It's much better when you weight it properly.
βeta?
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βeta: Lovely route. Don't be put off if your foot slips when testing the crucial smear. It's much better when you weight it properly.
Ropeboy 20 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A really good E3, one of the best I've climbed for a while. As recommended above LARGE friends req'd 3.5 and 4 best. The moves from the break are a bit smeary and balancy and lovely.
βeta?
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βeta: A really good E3, one of the best I've climbed for a while. As recommended above LARGE friends req'd 3.5 and 4 best. The moves from the break are a bit smeary and balancy and lovely.
FedUp 28 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah large cams protect! Longish fall from the crux but deffo not a solo. E3 5c perfect grade. fantastic!
βeta?
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βeta: Yeah large cams protect! Longish fall from the crux but deffo not a solo. E3 5c perfect grade. fantastic!
Katya 1 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Bog Standard grit E3. Good gear in the break, but LARGE (3/4) cams protect, not small as it says in the new Western Grit...
βeta?
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βeta: Bog Standard grit E3. Good gear in the break, but LARGE (3/4) cams protect, not small as it says in the new Western Grit...
philhilo 7 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Gear seems spot on to me any number of freinds in the break, no deck out potential. Quality route
βeta?
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βeta: Gear seems spot on to me any number of freinds in the break, no deck out potential. Quality route
Paz 14 Oct, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I slipped off on to the half height gear, but I don't think it's exactly death to solo. The slide took so long I could have read the paper.
βeta?
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βeta: I slipped off on to the half height gear, but I don't think it's exactly death to solo. The slide took so long I could have read the paper.
Robo 12 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Hey Jon, does that mean if I solo it in wellies and mittens, carrying your mum on my back it gets E10???
βeta?
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βeta: Hey Jon, does that mean if I solo it in wellies and mittens, carrying your mum on my back it gets E10???

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Route of Interest

Black Grub

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Beeston Tor)
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