UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is off limits from September 1st to end of October each year as the farmer keeps deer there and they are very aggresive during the rutting season. PLEASE do not break this ban as access is delicate, go somewhere else instead.

IMPORTANT: Parking is limited and cars must not be parked in the "turning circle", as this is needed for long farm vehicles to negotiate the hairpin and is not a car park.

The farmer had previously cleared a parking area 50m along the rough track just opposite the gate, and it used to allow for 6-7 cars. However, this area is now partly filled with logs and boulders, so there is space for only 3-4 cars now. It is strongly advised to car share and do not park in frorn of each other unless you know each other.

The center of the wall to the left of Bagel Mode starting on an obvious juggy slot - theres a sneaky low pocket foothold for the left foot. This is very much needed. Move up and left to a decent conglomerate pebble and then after some heel hook trickery move through the first pinch, then gain the higher pocket/pinch type hold in the middle of the wall with the right hand. A wide foot out left gives way to a techy, powerful deadpoint for better juggy pockets. Finish up and slight right on the obvious big pebble.

Kris Devlin 14/May/2021.

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Guidebooks for Rob's Reed

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
7aMax Scottish Sport - A Guide to Climbs from 2-7a+ Cover
7aMax Scottish Sport - A Guide to Climbs from 2-7a+ (2015)
Rider-French Consulting Ltd
By Sebastien Rider and Topher Dagg
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Route of Interest
Bulls on Parade

Grade: f7A ***
(Boustie Ley - Corrie Bonhard)

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