UKC

Restricted Access

These crags do not have agreed access. The landowner has concerns with climbing on his land, and any publicity about the crags, or an increase in use, will result in an immediate and enforced ban. Quiet, low-key use is currently tolerated - please do not do anything to jeopardise this. Be sensitive to the ecological features of the area and take all litter home with you.

 

Rockfax Description
A historical eliminate problem that somehow is good enough to have endured. Climb the crack without the crack - i.e. from a low undercut slap to the big flat sloper right of the crack, then aim for a finish at the ledge staying right of the crack. Can be climbed from a legit sit start with the slot, which is significantly harder. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Habitus without the crack. Undercuts just left of crack, slap for flatty then power through to top. Grade is for matching. 7a+/7b without. Worthwhile

Feedback

User Date Notes
A2 Rupture 13 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Sit start on mono and three finger pocket. Stand from the two undercuts goes around 6C+
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sit start on mono and three finger pocket. Stand from the two undercuts goes around 6C+

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dancing Man Original

Grade: f7A+ ***
(Smallfield)

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