Restricted Access
There are old signs on the approach paths indicating that climbing is not allowed. However the crag is on CRoW designated land and as such climbing is a legally permitted activity. However, climbers must not climb on, or belay from, the walls of the ruined chapel - this is a Grade I listed building and Scheduled Ancient Monument, and any damage to it would be a criminal offence. Roche Rock is a SSSI for its unique geology and so damage to or removal of rock is not permitted - no fixed gear should be placed here.
Link up. Start up the initial slab of Smoked Bacon, into the starting crack on Moping Owl. Place some gear and move left onto a small foothold on the narrow slab. Stretch left to join the slab of Lord Falmouth to take the left-hand finish. Certainly been done before, but worth recording since it makes the most of the possibilities on this lovely slab.
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Route of Interest
Archangel
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Black Head Area)