Restricted Access
There are old signs on the approach paths indicating that climbing is not allowed. However the crag is on CRoW designated land and as such climbing is a legally permitted activity. However, climbers must not climb on, or belay from, the walls of the ruined chapel - this is a Grade I listed building and Scheduled Ancient Monument, and any damage to it would be a criminal offence. Roche Rock is a SSSI for its unique geology and so damage to or removal of rock is not permitted - no fixed gear should be placed here.
8m.
Surprisingly good and independent climb although very escapeable, on the wall left of The Vital Spark. From the base on the pillar rock up with difficulty onto a foothold one the left wall. Climb up to the thin overlap and ace a crucial small cam. Finish direct with gusto over the bulge.
Tom Last, Hernan Cardenas and Mal Last 23/Jun/2015.
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Route of Interest
A Sackful of Clowns
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Carn Gowla)