UKC

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Climbing on the monastery walls is strictly forbidden and there are old signs on approach indicating no climbing.

This has been claimed and named a number of times over the years and reported as being V3, V6, 7B and a load of rubbish. Leaving it in generically this time until - if ever - there is any consensus [ed]
On the overhang behind Arsonist. Start sitting matched on the good part of the right arete, no footblocks are in, climb leftwards on slopey crimps, then slap out left to the good top of the boulder and top it out.
(At the start you are forced to either bring a right heel up to your hand/the arete, campus, or smear due to lack of good footholds.)

The following video is NOT the climb as he uses a footblock which makes it much easier. But where he starts is where the problems starts, and where he climbs the same line that the problem takes.

Goat.

Feedback

User Date Notes
goat 20 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Felt like 7A+, feel free to comment whatever grade you might think is appropriate.
Show beta
βeta: Felt like 7A+, feel free to comment whatever grade you might think is appropriate.

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Guidebooks for Roche Rock

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Route of Interest
The Prow

Grade: f? ***
(Holywell Bay)

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