UKC

Climbs 5
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 1550m a.s.l
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Romsdalhorn from Vengedalen © Chris Craggs

Crag features

A prominent summit overlooking Romsdalen, Trollveggen, Åndalsnes and the Vengedalen area with a rich climbing history. Several routes up the horn are possible, the most popular being Nordveggen which is a mild n4 or (Severe) that is well protected and offers some nice climbing. The Normalveien (n3) is largely disregarded nowadays due to it typically being wet and the volume of loose rock. However, Halls Renne, the upper gully on this route is known to form quite a reasonable winter route that offers snow, ice and some mixed climbing during winter months.

The pitches are typically 30-45m in length and the rappels are around 40-55m. Therefore a pair ropes is advised. Gear is good and for most people tackling Nordveggen a lightweight trad rack and a few cams is sufficient. Alpine draws are essential as the routes can wander. For Nordryggen a full rack is reccomended and perhaps something larger for the offwidth crux may be an idea.

Approach notes

The easiest way to find the path up to 'Gapet' - the start point for most of the routes on the Horn, is to follow the marked DNT path from the Litlefjellt parking area, up Litlefjellet then south along the ridge via some short scrambles to reach a flat area that overlooks 'Gapet'.

A slightly shorter route (shown on Norgeskart) can be found by parking further up Vengedalen.

The most direct approach which is not marked on the maps is to park at Hornvatent and ascend the steep slope directly up to 'Gapet', there may be small cairns.

Descent from the horn can be made by the original abseil route (until summer 2019) that begins with a downclimb of a corner (or slabs to its right) directly east from the summit.

Descent Route - There are 6 new abseil anchors protected by nuts and nice shiny stainless steel chains that have been installed during August - September 2018 by the Romsdal Tindegruppa. These anchors allow you to descend directly down the north face of Romsdalshorn avoiding the issues of loose rock and stuck ropes often encountered on the original line. The start of the abseils is located a short scramble down from the giant cairns on the summit in the direction of Åndalsnes. 60m ropes are reccomended as the abseil lengths given below are still tentative. The old abseil that starts on the eastern side of the horn will remain in place until this new route has become established (until approx summer 2019).

1 - After a 3m downclimb you will find the first anchor. Abseil is 25m, then follow a cleared path to second abseil.

2 - 28m abseil from a large muddy shelf down to a corner.

3a - ca. 55m abseil from a low angled slab to a large block

3b - An anchor is also placed between 3a and 4 to shorten the abseil and to avoid problems when pulling the ropes through.

4 - 50m from a blocky shelf that has been cleaned of loose rocks (right next to the 3rd abseil anchor, with bolts and chains, on the original abseil route).

5 - 50m

6 - ca. 45m down to 'Gapet' from a shelf just down and left from the original bolted abseil anchor.

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