UKC

80m, 4 pitches. On the south facing square cut buttress named "Sandy Geo" on O's maps. Half way between old man and mucklehouse.

Abseil down the thin gully with grassy ramp to access the boulders at the base of the route. Route begins on the west/sea facing past of the crag and winds it's way up and round to finish on the east facing wall in the gully.

P1. 25m 4b Multiple starts available on good rock to gain the large ledge at the top of the first short wall at the left hand side of the buttress. Follow steps up and right from the ledge to another large ledge at the base of a corner with a narrower wall on the right and large cracks on the left.

P2. 15m 5a Climb the cracks to the left of the corner (sandy) until the wall gets steep and then step out right with difficulty onto a ledge (angry fulmar, loose rocks)

P3. 15m 4c Climb the blocky tower and groove to the right to a ledge. Continue up the wall at left end of the ledge to another ledge, move right and up to a final large ledge and belay on the corner at the right edge.

P4. 25m 4c Traverse out right slightly and then climb the excellent crack system on the best rock of the route, very welcome after the previous two pitches. Large cams useful.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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User Date Notes
OllyGibb 25 Jun, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Large and loose rocks, often on belay ledges, take care
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Large and loose rocks, often on belay ledges, take care

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Route of Interest
Saithe

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Sandgeo)

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