UKC

90m, 4 pitches.
Pitch 1: E2 5c (15 m) Start on the wall just right of the Mucklehouse Wall (20 metres right of the abseil approach). Climb the hand crack then a short bouldery section to belay on the ledge.
Pitch 2: E2 5c ( 20 m) Climb the white wall on sloping breaks right of the crack, to a large ledge system. Pitch 1 and 2 could be linked together with enough mid size cams.
Pitch 3: E5 6a (40 m). THE pitch resembles the style and quality of the climbing on Taipan Wall. From the ledge make steep pull to gain the flake, climb this until standing on a small ledge at the top of the flake. Arrange gear and head up a short bouldery section that allows you to reach the sloping break. Traverse horizontal rightwards for 10m (good gear) until a short roof. Pull through this and climb the red wall on bullet hard rock until you get to the ledge. Traverse back leftward and arrange a belay.

Pitch 4 (E3 5c): From the ledge climb directly up on good rock between breaks. Arrange gear before using a slightly dubious looking flake/jug to reach the next break. One more stiff pull gets you to the top.

Patrick and Oliver Hill 31/May/2024.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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Grade: E5 6a ***
((Old Man of) Hoy)

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