Restricted Access
Restricted access to Red Cliff from 31st March to 31st July - Schedule 1 nesting birds.
45m.
Access the base by abseiling the north side of the buttress to a makeshift ledge. Climb the initial wall (micro wires) to a crack then traverse right to another crack system and onto a fixed sling.
Climb poorer rock past a corner and into an alcove. Stem up this and arrange protection at top, move right and make crux moves via a rib to gain a small ledge cutting across the face. Traverse leftwards, then make a committing move to gain the large ledge and thin crack above. Move left below arete, arrange gear, then commit to the wildly exposed and featured arete (terrier/pecker required for final moves).
Climb poorer rock past a corner and into an alcove. Stem up this and arrange protection at top, move right and make crux moves via a rib to gain a small ledge cutting across the face. Traverse leftwards, then make a committing move to gain the large ledge and thin crack above. Move left below arete, arrange gear, then commit to the wildly exposed and featured arete (terrier/pecker required for final moves).
Iain Small, Andy Hein 06/Jun/2023.
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Route of Interest
Roslin Roulette
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Roslin Glen)