Rockfax Description
The north face of Rulten consists of three main pillars. This route follows the middle one, linking a series of crack systems. The rock quality is generally good with some amazing cracks. The line can easily be seen from the glacier, and the route finding is straightforward. It is an adventure climb, where you will encounter a bit of everything. There is a lot of off-width climbing but also perfect hand-cracks and some interesting aid. It is best to consider this an alpine climb. Assess the snow conditions carefully - both the gully to the right of the climb and the decent gully are impact zones for melting snow and rocks if it is warm. Ice axe recommended on approach and descent.
Approach - From the farm at Reknes, follow the valley up towards the glacier (bushwacking). The wall is easily seen from the glacier. Once under the wall, the line is easily spotted.
1) A2, 30m. Aid the thin black crack (probably always wet). Step left where possible, to reach a hanging belay in an off-width.
2) N5+, 25m. Climb a chimney with crack inside to a belay on top of big chockstone.
3) N7-, 40m. Pull through a small roof to reach a small ledge. Move left and climb an off-width to a good ledge (tricky to make a good belay).
4) N8-/A3, 50m. Aid the thin crack above the ledge (followed free at N8-) then traverse left to the next crack. Hollow flakes and face climbing lead left (N6+) to where intricate moves reach a corner.
5) N7+/A1, 50m. Climb the excellent right-hand crack which turns into an off-width. Belay on a nice ledge. Free at N8-.
6) N7/A1, A super clean off-width climbed with some aid, shuttling big cams with no other gear. Requires good off-width skills and may go free at some unknown grade.
7) N7-, 40m. Climb the chimney/off-width crack on the inside. Go past blocks, then take a short crack to a ledge on the left.
8) N6+, 20m. Choose between two options - a chimney on the left or one final off-width on the right with some aid. Belay on the flat summit of the pillar then scramble to the top.
Descent - Five abseils lead down the gully on the east side of the summit, mostly from spikes plus two fixed nuts. © Rockfax

FA. Lars Martin Solberg, Thomas Thorstein 10.7.2015 10/Jul/2015.

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