UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
Take the steep and pumpy jamming-crack to the niche where it joins and finishes more easily as for Acarpous. © Rockfax

FA. Bill Tweedale 1966.

Feedback

User Date Notes
George Frisby 24 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Couldn't find a stake directly above the route so had to use one a long way off to the side. Also seems more of an obvious like to go direct up the flake but the top out for that is horrendous.
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βeta: Couldn't find a stake directly above the route so had to use one a long way off to the side. Also seems more of an obvious like to go direct up the flake but the top out for that is horrendous.
Marcus Buckley 1 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The first crack I've HAD to fully tape my hand for. Well protected, definitely an E for effort climb.
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βeta: The first crack I've HAD to fully tape my hand for. Well protected, definitely an E for effort climb.
Paul Evans 29 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yes, pretty butch. The good jams disappear at 12 feet and don't reappear for a few feet more..getting to the rest quite tricky also. Finishing by the niche not that hard.
βeta?
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βeta: Yes, pretty butch. The good jams disappear at 12 feet and don't reappear for a few feet more..getting to the rest quite tricky also. Finishing by the niche not that hard.
Andrew Smith 1 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A butch approach on good jams leads to a good rest, before the more technical traverse, out and up through the finishing niche of Acarpous. Good gear protects the hard finish, although you may swing a bit if you come off!!
βeta?
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βeta: A butch approach on good jams leads to a good rest, before the more technical traverse, out and up through the finishing niche of Acarpous. Good gear protects the hard finish, although you may swing a bit if you come off!!

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 9
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Trident

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wimberry Rocks)

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