UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
Bizarre and excellent. From Dead Dog Crack traverse to the spanner (its base is a bit thin, but threading it is better than nothing) then balance up the precarious shallow groove above and right. You need to avoid using the spanner as a hold to claim the full grade! Originally the route stared from Lolita - this is harder and more serious. . © Rockfax

FA. Dougie Hall 1978.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

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User Date Notes
Daniel Grout 31 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, favourite of the day, but that probably says more about style preference than the quality of other lines.
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βeta: Fantastic route, favourite of the day, but that probably says more about style preference than the quality of other lines.
Dan-gerMouse 1 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: What a route, quirky and fun. Very high in the grade I'd give it 5c british tech. The spanner has enough wabble to make you seriously consider yourself as mad when you're flailing around trying to tie it off. Fantastic!
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βeta: What a route, quirky and fun. Very high in the grade I'd give it 5c british tech. The spanner has enough wabble to make you seriously consider yourself as mad when you're flailing around trying to tie it off. Fantastic!
craig h 5 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Doing it from the right makes the route safer for the leader and the seconder (well to reach the spanner anyway). The move to the spanner this way is a fair reach and may stop those with a short span. Spanner's only lost 50% of its original thickness and can be hidden nicely with a sling, very off balance before the final toothy blocks are reached for a fun finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Doing it from the right makes the route safer for the leader and the seconder (well to reach the spanner anyway). The move to the spanner this way is a fair reach and may stop those with a short span. Spanner's only lost 50% of its original thickness and can be hidden nicely with a sling, very off balance before the final toothy blocks are reached for a fun finish.
Duncan I 5 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It is possible to place a high runner in Dead Dog Crack and make a few moves across the traverse to the spanner then exit direct. Still E2, and you'll still hit the floor if you fluff the top move. The spanner is not a particularly confidence-inspiring piece of protection and you don't see how bad it is until you've done the traverse.
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βeta: It is possible to place a high runner in Dead Dog Crack and make a few moves across the traverse to the spanner then exit direct. Still E2, and you'll still hit the floor if you fluff the top move. The spanner is not a particularly confidence-inspiring piece of protection and you don't see how bad it is until you've done the traverse.
craig h 8 Jan, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The route in the 1988 Moorland Gritstone Guide starts up Lolita on the left side of the wall and traverse rightwards to the spanner.
βeta?
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βeta: The route in the 1988 Moorland Gritstone Guide starts up Lolita on the left side of the wall and traverse rightwards to the spanner.

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Route of Interest

Blasphemy

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Wimberry Rocks)
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