Restricted Access
All quarries that form Running Hill Pits are mapped as open access land with the exception of Quarry No 7 and 8. Access land gives a right of access on foot for quiet recreation, specifically including climbing as a permitted activity. The landowner is able to restrict access for up to 28 days at their discretion, but details of this must be notified on site and on the Natural England website (see 'CRoW Information' section below for more details).
Alternatively, a shoot may ask climbers to hold back temporarily whilst they move thorugh the area for safety reasons, after which you are able to access the area again. This approach is is only a slight inconvenience rather than a ban covering the whole day, so do what you can to work with the shoot.
Climbers have experienced problems with being asked to leave at the crag, presumably by the landowner or one of his agents, but no details were given. If there are no temporary restrictions in place, you have a legal right to access the quarries and surrounding access land for climbing and walking. If asked to leave, please ask for the person's contact details and pass them onto the BMC access team.
Rockfax Description
Bizarre and excellent. From Dead Dog Crack traverse to the spanner (its base is a bit thin, but threading it is better than nothing) then balance up the precarious shallow groove above and right. You need to avoid using the spanner as a hold to claim the full grade! Originally the route stared from Lolita - this is harder and more serious. . © Rockfax
FA. Dougie Hall 1978.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors) , Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Daniel Grout | 31 May, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route, favourite of the day, but that probably says more about style preference than the quality of other lines. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route, favourite of the day, but that probably says more about style preference than the quality of other lines. |
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| Dan-gerMouse | 1 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: What a route, quirky and fun. Very high in the grade I'd give it 5c british tech. The spanner has enough wabble to make you seriously consider yourself as mad when you're flailing around trying to tie it off. Fantastic! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: What a route, quirky and fun. Very high in the grade I'd give it 5c british tech. The spanner has enough wabble to make you seriously consider yourself as mad when you're flailing around trying to tie it off. Fantastic! |
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| craig h | 5 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Doing it from the right makes the route safer for the leader and the seconder (well to reach the spanner anyway). The move to the spanner this way is a fair reach and may stop those with a short span. Spanner's only lost 50% of its original thickness and can be hidden nicely with a sling, very off balance before the final toothy blocks are reached for a fun finish. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Doing it from the right makes the route safer for the leader and the seconder (well to reach the spanner anyway). The move to the spanner this way is a fair reach and may stop those with a short span. Spanner's only lost 50% of its original thickness and can be hidden nicely with a sling, very off balance before the final toothy blocks are reached for a fun finish. |
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| Duncan I | 5 Sep, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: It is possible to place a high runner in Dead Dog Crack and make a few moves across the traverse to the spanner then exit direct. Still E2, and you'll still hit the floor if you fluff the top move. The spanner is not a particularly confidence-inspiring piece of protection and you don't see how bad it is until you've done the traverse. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: It is possible to place a high runner in Dead Dog Crack and make a few moves across the traverse to the spanner then exit direct. Still E2, and you'll still hit the floor if you fluff the top move. The spanner is not a particularly confidence-inspiring piece of protection and you don't see how bad it is until you've done the traverse. |
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| craig h | 8 Jan, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: The route in the 1988 Moorland Gritstone Guide starts up Lolita on the left side of the wall and traverse rightwards to the spanner. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The route in the 1988 Moorland Gritstone Guide starts up Lolita on the left side of the wall and traverse rightwards to the spanner. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Running Hill Pits
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Wipe Out
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Wilton 1)