UKC

39m.

Rockfax Description
The main line of the slab is a Littlejohn classic and one of the great climbs of Pembroke. The route has adequate protection if you can stop to place it all. Start from the ledge below the corner or, at low tide, from the huge boulder - this is the original line although most ascents use the higher start. Move up right to gain the rising traverse line. An awkward small rightwards step gains the main flake which is more strenuous than you might think. Follow this, which eases as you get higher, to below a thin crack. Climb the crack and blocky ground above to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, C.Heard 11/May/1980.

Ticklists

15 Climbs to do before you die , Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , High Quality Adventure routes , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Becky's ticklist , Pembroke Goalz , UK Holiday Plans , 3 star Pembroke e1. , The E1 UK Roadtrip , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces

Feedback

User Date Notes
a_radiohead_fan 9 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: awesome climb. 3 stars. e2 in the cc guide and that felt about right. great exposure and tricky crux that aint too hard but certainly felt like it at the time.
βeta?
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βeta: awesome climb. 3 stars. e2 in the cc guide and that felt about right. great exposure and tricky crux that aint too hard but certainly felt like it at the time.
cornishben 2 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: great route - i thought E1. Think the numbering of SL and LS is wrong on the new rockfax topo though
βeta?
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βeta: great route - i thought E1. Think the numbering of SL and LS is wrong on the new rockfax topo though
Chad123 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Getting a bit polished, felt more like E2 to me especially for the postition. Take lots of small wires!
βeta?
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βeta: Getting a bit polished, felt more like E2 to me especially for the postition. Take lots of small wires!
graeme thomson 13 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Youre right about it being serious for the second. Basically its e1, and never harder than 5b, but the environment and the consequences of your second taking a slip are pretty harsh
βeta?
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βeta: Youre right about it being serious for the second. Basically its e1, and never harder than 5b, but the environment and the consequences of your second taking a slip are pretty harsh
alan moore 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Reckon this is E2; inescapable and quite strenuous...found myself wilting on the steep finishing bulge.
βeta?
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βeta: Reckon this is E2; inescapable and quite strenuous...found myself wilting on the steep finishing bulge.
john horscroft 21 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Sounds daft I know, but I reckon Lucky Strike is harder than Strike Lucky. The comment about the second on LS is very true which is why I reckon it deserves to be E2. SL by comparison is straightforward and well geared.
βeta?
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βeta: Sounds daft I know, but I reckon Lucky Strike is harder than Strike Lucky. The comment about the second on LS is very true which is why I reckon it deserves to be E2. SL by comparison is straightforward and well geared.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 121
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 114
Votes cast 110
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wishful Thinking

Grade: E1 5b ***
(The Castle)

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