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Please do not belay to the radar station fence, fence posts or any MoD installations - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. There are natural anchors and stakes where needed. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday. Note: May 2024, there is a bird nest in the crack above the cave of No Hands. Please avoid the routes ‘Follow the Chalk' and 'No Hands’ until end of July or chicks have fledged. Thanks.

20m. Follow Tipstaff to the ledge, then head directly up the steep wall just right of the arête to finish on the top of The Tip.

FA. A.Hutton, P.Drew 13/Sep/2014.

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User Date Notes
John Brayshaw 2 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Nice crack followed by some very dubious blocks that are hard to avoid
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice crack followed by some very dubious blocks that are hard to avoid

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Guidebooks for Saddle Head

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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Route of Interest
Diedre Sud

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Mowing Word)

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