UKC

Restricted Access

Please do not belay to the radar station fence, fence posts or any MoD installations - this could jeopardize climbing at this site. There are natural anchors and stakes where needed. Night firing normally occurs on Tuesday & Thursday but may also alternate to Monday & Wednesday. Note: May 2024, there is a bird nest in the crack above the cave of No Hands. Please avoid the routes ‘Follow the Chalk' and 'No Hands’ until end of July or chicks have fledged. Thanks.

25m. The staggered left-facing groove 8m to the right of Final Groove has a couple of awkward sections.

FA. P.Donnithorne, E.Alsford 06/Jun/2015.

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Guidebooks for Saddle Head

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Route of Interest
Galactic Co-ordinator

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Triple Overhang Buttress)

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