A brilliant & one of a kind climb for sub E4 climbers on Saddle Tor!
Enter the chimney via a tip-toe reach to a mini jug on the left face. Wriggle up the holdless chimney to crack 12" up allowing for a good no hands rest, take a breather & continue to wriggle, the wedged boulder at the top provides a good hand hold but in an arkward position.
While gear is present it is sparse & wont help the wriggling. The wedged boulder would allow for a good thread placement. Probably best treated as solo.
Javu.co.uk Grades this at 4c, While Nick White Grades at an underestimated 4a. 4b compromise and definitely deserves a star!