UKC

1000m, 35 pitches. Regarded as one of the longest, hardest and finest ridge climbs in the whole of the Alps. The route links five huge consecutive towers along the ridge up to the final summit tower and needle.
Message from mBob8, 24/08/2018:
Direct approach to Bivi hut via couloir has seen a massive amount of recent rockfall (thankfully off the back of 1st and 2nd tower so not affecting rock route) but has made the approach couloir very dangerous, we recce'd it without bags and turned back before half way, too loose and risky. Especially to repeat with bags on and then descend after a long days climbing - not recommended. Longer but safer approach via main hut is recommended. In a dry summer, e.g. 2022 carry all water to the bivi hut from the main hut- all the streams dry up. Another good reason to not do the direct approach. Email salbit@sac-mythen.ch to book it, take 15CHF/€ each. Lots of gas cylinders and 1 gas stove at the hut, might be worth chucking another burner in, in case it’s busy. Plenty of blankets- cosy!

Ticklists

10 Multi-pitch Routes Worth Travelling For , Euro Alpine Rock , Extreme Alpine Rock , Big Alpine Routes , Switzerland - June/July - 2023 , Big Ideas

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User Date Notes
whitewaterpops 24 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Descend couloir almost completely free of snow, relatively easy conditions. Tat at stations generally in very bad state. Easy to get the rope stuck at Hotel Salbit - be mindful of the direction of pull.
βeta?
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βeta: Descend couloir almost completely free of snow, relatively easy conditions. Tat at stations generally in very bad state. Easy to get the rope stuck at Hotel Salbit - be mindful of the direction of pull.
Rick Asher 8 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: At our limit, but the weather was kind to us and we found snow on ledges to keep rehydrated. Great team effort and top route finding by Jon. This is a superb route and big tick for folk that climb around HVS/E1. Its objectively safe and escapable throughout, if you are efficient and quick, its easily achieved. Has to be one of the finest routes I've climbed. This was my third attempt having been weathered off on previous attempts. We climbed in blocks rather than swing leads e.g. i climbed the whole of the first tower then continued to alternate the towers. The second had a big rucksack with shoes, food etc while the leader had a small 15 litre sack. don't take bivi gear, it will slow you down. If anyone wants more beta, please don't hesitate to contact me
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: At our limit, but the weather was kind to us and we found snow on ledges to keep rehydrated. Great team effort and top route finding by Jon. This is a superb route and big tick for folk that climb around HVS/E1. Its objectively safe and escapable throughout, if you are efficient and quick, its easily achieved. Has to be one of the finest routes I've climbed. This was my third attempt having been weathered off on previous attempts. We climbed in blocks rather than swing leads e.g. i climbed the whole of the first tower then continued to alternate the towers. The second had a big rucksack with shoes, food etc while the leader had a small 15 litre sack. don't take bivi gear, it will slow you down. If anyone wants more beta, please don't hesitate to contact me
markalmack 14 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There are abseil stations below the 5th tower in the gully/stream on the right (facing in) down to the ground/snow
βeta?
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βeta: There are abseil stations below the 5th tower in the gully/stream on the right (facing in) down to the ground/snow

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