A deservedly popular route that is the perfect introduction to Dolomite trad. The rock is mainly solid and, although not always logical, the route is varied and enjoyable. There are cemented belays throughout, but scant fixed gear en-route.
Start at the base of the south arete by a piton and a faded red mark below a groove.
1) III, 25m. Climb the groove then move left to a belay below a short corner.
2) IV-, 30m. Climb the corner then follow the arete with enjoyable exposed climbing to a comfortable stance.
3) IV, 30m. Continue following the arete to a stance below a yellow arete.
4) IV, 30m. Climb to a piton then traverse right to reach a chimney. Climb this rightwards then move back left on easier rock to a belay in a break in the arete.
5) IV-, 30m. Climb rightwards to reach a good ledge, overcome a crack then move left and back right to squeeze into a chimney to a belay behind a flake.
6) IV, 25m. Be careful not to go direct here. Drop down a little and traverse right through a vague tunnel before following a shallow chimney behind a flake. Belay below a corner with a gully to the right (easier variant).
7) IV+, 20m. Climb the slightly polished but well-pegged corner-crack then continue with easier climbing to a belay below the summit cross. It is also possible to climb the easier gully on the right, but you'd end up missing the best pitch.
8) III, 20m. Climb the amenable slab above to reach the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A very popular and fun introduction to the Dolomites, but not quite as good as it looks. Anything from 3 to 7 pitches, with numerous cemented belay places. The crux is the final pitch, but it is avoidable.
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