UKC

150m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A deservedly popular route that is the perfect introduction to Dolomite trad. The rock is mainly solid and, although not always logical, the route is varied and enjoyable. There are cemented belays throughout, but scant fixed gear en-route.

Start at the base of the south arete by a piton and a faded red mark below a groove.
1) III, 25m. Climb the groove then move left to a belay below a short corner.
2) IV-, 30m. Climb the corner then follow the arete with enjoyable exposed climbing to a comfortable stance.
3) IV, 30m. Continue following the arete to a stance below a yellow arete.
4) IV, 30m. Climb to a piton then traverse right to reach a chimney. Climb this rightwards then move back left on easier rock to a belay in a break in the arete.
5) IV-, 30m. Climb rightwards to reach a good ledge, overcome a crack then move left and back right to squeeze into a chimney to a belay behind a flake.
6) IV, 25m. Be careful not to go direct here. Drop down a little and traverse right through a vague tunnel before following a shallow chimney behind a flake. Belay below a corner with a gully to the right (easier variant).
7) IV+, 20m. Climb the slightly polished but well-pegged corner-crack then continue with easier climbing to a belay below the summit cross. It is also possible to climb the easier gully on the right, but you'd end up missing the best pitch.
8) III, 20m. Climb the amenable slab above to reach the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A very popular and fun introduction to the Dolomites, but not quite as good as it looks. Anything from 3 to 7 pitches, with numerous cemented belay places. The crux is the final pitch, but it is avoidable.

Cobertaldo/Pezzotti 01/Aug/1939.

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel , Big Routes , Dolomites Trip , Dolomites easy multipitch , Dolomites , Dollies and Follies

Feedback

User Date Notes
mkirkham 12 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Start was below wooden sign, there is a faded red mark on the wall at the foot of arete. Bergsteigen website has great topo, can use Google translate on the image file
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Start was below wooden sign, there is a faded red mark on the wall at the foot of arete. Bergsteigen website has great topo, can use Google translate on the image file
Bruise Apprentice 9 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: You can save a fair bit of time approaching via the Galleria Goinginger tunnel, which was built by the Austrian army in WW1 (take a head torch). The exit takes you very close to the start of the route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: You can save a fair bit of time approaching via the Galleria Goinginger tunnel, which was built by the Austrian army in WW1 (take a head torch). The exit takes you very close to the start of the route.
ecooper03 15 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Hard to find the start of the route, no clear features
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard to find the start of the route, no clear features
Bob M 7 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Start is not obvious from the Rockfax description. There is a worn area below a broad gully just left of a tricky step in the traverse path at the foot of the cliff. We scrambled up the left side of this gully to find a belay ring below the polished corner of pitch 2.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Start is not obvious from the Rockfax description. There is a worn area below a broad gully just left of a tricky step in the traverse path at the foot of the cliff. We scrambled up the left side of this gully to find a belay ring below the polished corner of pitch 2.

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Votes cast 43
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