Rockfax Description
An excellent route that takes the exposed South Pillar arete before joining Via Maria at the top of the tower. The crux is very sequency and high in the grade but well protected with three pegs.
Start 10m left of the arete below a smaller subsidiary tower under a prominent crack.
1) IV, 20m. Climb a crack direct to a thread on a ledge.
2) V, 25m. Climb up the corner-crack then, at three quarters height below a collection of tat, make a rising traverse right to reach the top of the subsidiary tower.
3) VI, 10m. Climb the arete direct, with a short, stiff and polished crux which is well protected by three pegs, to a good stance above.
4) V+, 30m. Climb the crack above direct, or step 2m right to climb an easier crack then cut gently diagonally left past a bulge. Climb a shallow corner to a pale roof and 5m below this traverse diagonally left to a stance just right of the arete.
5) IV-, 40m. Climb the arete direct, with easy yet satisfying climbing, to reach a large roof. Move around this on its left then traverse a ledge to a crack. Climb this for 5m over loose ledges to a 2-peg belay above the roof.
6) III+, 35m. Step right from the stance for 2m to a low peg then climb direct towards a pale niche. Just below this, move diagonally left and take the most logical line to a large sling.
7) I, 40m. Walk around to the notch/gully between the two towers to a block at the far end of the gully, just below a yellow wall. Belay on a large thread at its base. Via Maria joins here.
8-11) As for pitches 6 to 9 of Via Maria. © Rockfax

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