UKC

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Brilliant and varied climbing set in magnificent surroundings. This description includes The Arete Finish. Start at the bottom of the rampline that rises leftwards under the leaning wall.
1) 14m. Climb the rampline to a stance at its end.
2) 5b, 25m. Climb the tough crack to the left of the overhang above, then continue up a corner until a move left gains a groove. Climb the groove to its end and then go left to a ramp and belay.
3) 5b, 25m. Move back right to a striking crack in the arete. Climb the crack then move right and up the airy rib to the top - all very exposed. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1. 5c. From the ramp belay attack the hand crack and the awkward bulge above to a good rest.The dirty groove above is desperate and leads to a poor resting position below a sustained and delightful groove. At the top of this an easy traverse leads to an easy ramp and belay.
2. 5b. Descend the ramp a little and climb the lovely delicate wall to easier ground. Climb the easy cracks up the right wall to the right arete and sanctuary.

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , A Lakeland E2 Odyssey , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lake District To Do List

Feedback

User Date Notes
jackmorford 10 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch one was sopping wet in the groove. It was impassable so ventured out left on the face which felt hard and pumpy but doable. Couldn\'t get much back on the bad rest above and another wet hold combined to see me pinging off. Andy got on it and sailed through it, I then joined him without too much difficulty and led the second pitch which was delightful! Needs a good couple of days to dry - Ichabod next to it was absolutely streaming with water from top to bottom.
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βeta: Pitch one was sopping wet in the groove. It was impassable so ventured out left on the face which felt hard and pumpy but doable. Couldn't get much back on the bad rest above and another wet hold combined to see me pinging off. Andy got on it and sailed through it, I then joined him without too much difficulty and led the second pitch which was delightful! Needs a good couple of days to dry - Ichabod next to it was absolutely streaming with water from top to bottom.
John Kettle 26 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: From the niche to the Ichabod Abseil (via arete finish) can be done in one big pitch on 50m ropes with about 4m to spare.
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βeta: From the niche to the Ichabod Abseil (via arete finish) can be done in one big pitch on 50m ropes with about 4m to spare.
im off 8 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Did arete finish.
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βeta: Did arete finish.

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 17
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Lord of the Rings

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Scafell East Buttress)

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