Rockfax Description
One of the most prized Lake District E5s that incorporates hard climbing with a big run-out on its main pitch. Start at a belay in the smaller corner (down and right of the Lost Horizons corner) that is reached via a climb/scramble.
1) 6a, 24m. Climb the corner and move right to get established on a precarious gangway. Move along to the gangway's end and climb the groove above it boldly to its top. Pull out right to a ledge and stance.
2) 5c, 20m. The groove and crack lead to another ledge.
3) 5b, 30m. The difficult and dirty corner on the right to a ledge at its top. Move right to finish up Overhanging Wall. The dirty corner can be avoided by traversing right to join Overhanging Wall lower down. © Rockfax
Extreme Rock , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Rob Greenwood's Top 5 E5 Routes in the UK , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Turbo-Punter's Tradification
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Dove Crag (Dovedale))