Sensational positions and complex route finding combine to deliver a memorable climb. Start as for Great Eastern Route.
1) 4b, 20m. Climb up to a slabby ramp and then move up right to a corner. Follow this to a ledge, then take the cracks above to another ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 15m. Climb the corner above for 3m before moving left to an easing on the edge. Move up for 5m and then head back right across the wide corner/groove to a stance and belay.
3) 5a, 18m. Move right to below a slim right-facing corner and climb it for 5m until it is possible to traverse back left to regain the wide corner. Continue up the corner to a slab and move right up a step (as for Great Eastern Route) to another ramp and belay.
4) 4c, 14m. Move slightly right and gain a narrow ramp in the steep wall above. Follow the ramp left and then head up to a stance on a slab below a corner.
5) 4c, 30m. Move up left to a pinnacle and then back right to a block below a corner-crack. Climb the layback crack to the top. © Rockfax
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